At the controller end, I have a Corcom AC Line Filter, a big
toroid with many turns on the wire going to the valves, and
bypass caps on each valve wire. I think it is solid now, but I
still unplug the sprinklers before every contest. It's on my
checklist of things to do. Putting capacitors in the valve box
would be messy, and it's the controller end that is causing the
problems.
Before I got the problem solved, I did damage an internal part of
the backflow preventer valve on the sprinkler system. I was on
CW at the time, and the water hammer caused by all sprinkler
valves opening and closing together damaged a major component.
Fortunately I was able to find the part on EBay. Those backflow
valves are expensive if you have to replace them.
Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: rick darwicki
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 3:06 PM
To: Group RFI
Subject: [RFI] 160 M triggers my lawn sprinklers
Hi all,
I have ferrite on the power, rain sensor and all the leads going
into my controller and no problems on other bands, but 1500 W on
160 triggers my new Rain Bird sprinkler controller.
I had .01 bypass caps on the inputs to the old controller and
that solved the problem. Hanging them on the controller looks
messy.
Question, is it better or worse to bypass the ends of the lines
at the valves? or should I bypass both?
I was never able to cure the problem with just ferrites (HF and
LF)
Thanks
Rick, N6PE
=======================================
The only difference between a rut and a grave is the depth.
Website: http://www.qsl.net/n6pe/index.html
eBay Store: http://stores.ebay.com/N6PE-Radio-Tubes
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