Hi Ed, I've had the Scout mobile for about 3 years now and can comment on
some of your questions. The tune switch should give you 20 watts, based on a
50 watt output. I believe that since there is a simple mod that can give you
a qrp output with the flip of an additional small switch, that the
additional circuit/components needed to lower power in the tune position
should not be difficult. The mobile mount is something that only your
individual taste in mounting situations will dictate. While there is nothing
wrong with the mount, there is nothing about mounting the Scout in the car
that makes it necessary.
I have checked into the 20 meter net with the Scout barefoot on occasion,
but know that going mobile diminishes your hearing/being heard relative to
ambient conditions on any given day. While you will hear most of what you
ordinarily hear from your shack, there will be others that you will not hear
or be heard by. Getting the optimum antenna installation for your particular
vehicle will dictate more or less how much success/fun you'll have with the
Scout while mobile. I use a four mag mount brace on the roof of my sedan.
The trunk mount, while viable was noisier. So far I've used hamstick type
ants. and outbacker's stealth and full size to good effect.
If you use an antenna analyzer to bring your antenna to freq. you will be
happier with your swr and the rigs subsequent performance. The meter on the
rig can be a relative guide, but unless its resting on zero, your efficiency
will suffer. Using a tuner is not a good idea in mobile work, rather use an
inductive matching device at the base of the mobile ant. such as the one
offered by Lakewood ants.
Mobile work is an ongoing learning experience and refining as you go will be
the order you want to follow. So, get it working and then trying various
improvements will demonstrate what to do and what not to do. It takes time
and thought, trial and error, so be patient and methodical. Your reward will
be in using the rig effectively in both good and bad condx. having developed
a system approach to mobiling.
I am much happier with the wiring that my local mobile audio installer did
than the one I fashioned using the car's accessory 12v. plug. The mobile
installer while not familiar with short wave communications, knows how to
avoid the problems inherent with respect to noise and can bring the wiring
through the firewall in a modern vehicle better than my attempting to do it
blind. I was cautioned to consult my dealer for info regarding the car's
sensitivity to rf energy. Happily, my Toyota is not sensitive to radiating
rf
and have had no problems using my Metron amp in the car along with the
Scout. I have not used a screwdriver ant. and so cannot comment.
Band changes with the Scout require that you have either other antennas
along and can set them up at known settings, or in the case of the
Outbacker, just change the plug in appropriately. On 20-10 this is less
critical, but 40 and 80 become a bit more critical. Dont expect to do this
on the fly, or quickly until you know what your results will be having used
your analyzer and can duplicate optimal settings.
Using an amp makes mobiling more fun and effective for a wider range of
condx. and situations. I use a Clear Speech speaker as part of the setup
because it works and will allow you to hear thru the many noises inherent in
mobiling. I use the Scout for CW as well. The Metron amp does not have an
adequate relay to use QSK with, so I only use the Scout barefoot. I have had
allot of fun and success with CW and the Clear Speech enhances its use as
well. Its auto notch works thru cw, so its not a problem.
I hope this helps. 73.
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