Hi Jorge,
Aluminum wire may have a short life due to corrosion, depending on
your local soil conditions. Aluminum wire buried in poorly drained
clay soils is particularly susceptible to corrosion. It is for this reason
that the National Electric Code bans the use of bare aluminum in soils.
Corrosion is nothing more than the inherent tendency of refined metals
such as aluminum to revert to their natural ore state through release of
latent energy acquired during the refining process.
Metals like copper, gold and silver that exist naturally in their metal
lic
state are almost totally impervious to corrosion from most soils found
worldwide. Natural clay, sand, gravel, loam, and chalk soils seldom
possess the combination of properties that promote copper corrosion.
Abnormally aggressive soils -- for example, soils with extremely high
levels of organic or inorganic acidic materials, sulfides, or carbon
bearing materials such as cinders -- may promote copper corrosion.
73
Frank
W3LPL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jorge Diez - CX6VM" <cx6vm.jorge@gmail.com>
To: Topband@contesting.com
Sent: Thursday, January 1, 2015 2:28:00 PM
Subject: Re: Topband: Silver solder
Thanks all for the help
Will be looking for a lead free solder to solder terminals to the radial
wires
According to use 3.5 mm aluminum wire, what do you think? Is a good option
or is better to use copper stranded cable?
73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Topband [mailto:topband-bounces@contesting.com] En nombre de Gary
Smith
Enviado el: miércoles, 31 de diciembre de 2014 02:49 a.m.
Para: Topband@contesting.com
Asunto: Re: Topband: Silver solder
I 2nd Merv's experience. My on the ground radials, on an oceanside salt
marsh, have held up as new for 4 years and I used the lead free plumbing
solder. The only issue is that solder requires a bit more heat then the
leaded solder.
That's all I use outdoors any more.
734 & HNY,
Gary
KA1J
Here in salt air regular solder turns to white powder pretty fast, I
have been also using lead free solder, I got a roll of plumbers
solder and a jar of resin flux. works very well on #10 radials and
4 inch wide copper strap etc. Have left several joints exposed
and there is no corrosion after 4 years.
Works great so far.
73 Merv K9FD/KH6
> 2% is about what the lead-free electronic solders are (they are a
tin/silver/copper alloy and are mostly tin). Don't bother with the 30%. My
mechanical contractor uses this stuff to fix things he can't reach well
enough to braze. It's not generally used for anything normal.
>
> Coincidentally I was just out soldering more radials last night. I use
18 gauge solid copper radial wire and a 1/2" copper pipe ring to tie them
together. My original 29 radials were all soldered with lead-free
electronic
solder and they are all fine after 2-3 years. I didn't do anything to try
to
protect the soldered connections -- everything is fully exposed and lying
on
the ground.
>
> I added 31 more radials. I soldered some the same way, but I'm trying
regular lead-free plumbing solder on the others. I am finding the plumbing
flux to work better than the rosin-core solder (it wets the joints more
evenly). I'm not sure what the exact alloy is for the plumbing solder.
>
> If you use the solder bars remember that you'll need separate flux and
brushes to apply it. I like the water soluble flux -- it cleans up way
easier.
>
> -Bill KB8WYP
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Dec 30, 2014, at 7:28 PM, Jorge Diez CX6VM <cx6vm.jorge@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>> Hello
>>
>> I read about using silver to solder wire radials to terminals
>>
>> This week I decided to ask sellers about silver solder and they
>> offered me a 2% and 30% silver bars
>>
>> What we need for our use? Will be ok to use 2%? The difference in
>> price
is extremely high!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jorge
>> CX6VM/CW5W
>>
>> Enviado desde mi iPhone
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