I cann't guarantee this will work, because I don't know exactly what you
have.
I would use a hot lacquer thinner product from Ditzler Paint their
identification is DTL-16. This is a high volitility lacqer thinner that
is very aggressive. I discovered it when I wasworking in my Dad'a body
shop as kid. I usually buy a couple of gallons at a time. Last time was
two years ago and his price was $20 a gallon. We always used it in
primer to get the primer to dry fast so we could get to final sanding
faster. I use it for cleaning stuff.
Some times you have to soak the alluminum part in it for 5 or 10 minutes
and use paper towels so you don't fill a rag with the dissolved stuff
and spread it all over.
You can dispose of the paper towels by spreading them out single layer
in a well ventilated garage to finish evaporating, then put in trash.
Do keep it away from plastic parts - it will eat up any thing -
including your hands and it has a tolulene in it - a know carcinagin. So
use rubber gloves and a face shield for any splashes.
My wife hates the smell and I try to only use it out doors.
Great stuff if it doesn't kill you.
de n0yvy steve
Dennis Schaefer wrote:
>
> I'm refurbishing a used KT-34A. The capacitor caps have all turned white
> (maybe they WERE white when this one was made) and some of them have
> cracks. I have a new set of caps, but the problem is that the previous
> owner gobbed silicone all over the caps and other joints.
>
> I have removed silicone from coax connectors before, and I don't remember
> it being this tough. This stuff looks and feels like a silicone compound,
> but is not completely clear - has a little off-white tint to it. It seems
> tougher - adheres to the aluminum better. You can't just peel it off.
>
> Is there something that would make it easier to remove this stuff, or do I
> just need to keep whittling away with my single-edged razor blade?
>
> Dennis, W5RZ
>
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