> The main problem with Molex plugs is that they get water in them easily and
> are very hard to
> waterproof. I tried them once & had to give up on them for that reason.
This won't be threaded right because I grabbed it from Steve's post.
However...
I wouldn't sweat the connector too much. If you're a perfectionist,
sure, do your thing. But I ran for 20 years on the same cables with
completely unprotected molex connectors at the junction under the rotor
and at the control box. There was no tape, not even silicon grease.
Just dry connectors. I had a 3' pigtail hooked to the screw connectors
on the rotor, then a drip loop, and the cable taped to the tower leg
with the connector high in the loop but fully exposed to all weather.
The connectors were installed in northern CA (wet), but used most of
that time in drier climates of MT, WY, CO, and NE. The control box end
of the cable was also outside, sometimes laying on the ground, as it was
long enough to get the connection outside the shack window.
The real problem with molex is that they are hard to plug and unplug.
Perhaps a little silicon grease would have helped, but most of the
problem is caused by the size and shape of the plugs. They are small
and have sharp corners, hard to grip to separate them. They fit
tightly.
I have no problem with doing it "right". I just wanted to say that you
don't HAVE to, to have a long lasting system.
I'll be using the newer rubberized "trailer" connectors when I get
around to putting connectors in my new installation. At least they're
easier to grip, and they do keep moisture out better. Someone made the
comment that they are very easy to find. I'll have to argue that one.
I've been to nearly every RV and auto parts shop in a 100 mile radius,
and no one has the rubberized 8 conductor plugs the right size. I'm
glad to have a few people like The Wire Man around where I can get them,
and at a good price.
Gary
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