Steve:
Use insulated house wiring: cheap ($13 for 500 feet at Home Depot),
easy to apply (wrap a 4 inch piece around the cable and messinger wire and
twist the ends together). Use #12 as that is a little larger diameter and
won't pinch the coax and control cable as easily when you tighten it up.
73 de
Gene Smar AD3F
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Jackson <ssj@nortelnetworks.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com <towertalk@contesting.com>
To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Date: Sunday, October 17, 1999 3:19 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] messenger cable attachments
>
>Hello
>
>I just installed a 205 foot long "fence" of 6" x 6" x 6' pressure-treated
>posts, each buried about 2 1/2' deep. These support a 1/4" EHS messenger
>cable (through side-mounted eye bolts) and I have one run of RG213 type
>coax across it for now. I'll be running a large rotor-cable type control
>cable, and a 1/2" FSJ and 7/8" Heliax lines in addition to the 'regular
>coax (if it ever stops raining here). The messenger cable is tied to
>anchors at both ends, with a turnbuckle, just like a guy line - except
>horizontal. The anchors are the kind used for mobile homes. Cheap and
>effective.
>
>I attached the small RG213 style coax to the messenger line every so often
>with regular electrical tape. Seems to work fine. But I feel it mightn't
>be sufficient for the heavier/stiffer hard-line cables, nor for the thick
>control cable.
>
>So: anyone have any other ideas how to strap the coaxes to the messenger
>line, besides lots of ty-wraps?
>
>Steve KZ1X/4
>Chapel Hill, NC
>
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