Before we get the wrong impression on FLUXES - there is nothing wrong
with the correct kind for any electrical work. The ROSIN fluxes are
designed for the job and are readily available in a number 0of grades for
even the most critical circuit board work. If no residue at all is
necessary, there is flux remover available as well.
Most manual point soldering of this type uses rosin core solder, also
easy to get anywhere, in regular and non-lead versions.
Liquid rosin flux is also effective in cleaning tarnished wire - heated
carefully, the wire end is dipped into the flux quenching and cleaning it
in preparation for the soldering.
"Solder-it" is one of the handiest ways to solder any electrical splice -
it is a mixture of powdered solder and flux in a little dispenser that
can apply the mix to a splice. A tiny butane flame finishes the job. It
is available in many versions, but the correct one for electrical work is
the silver paste.
It's worthwhile to check http://www.solder-it.com to learn more. I'm sure
lots of you have seen Fred Doob's demo at hamfests, showing you how easy
If you can't find any rosin flux or any of the things mentioned above,
you can read about most of them at http://www.mcmastercarr.com also.
And, by the way, Fred, "NOKORODE" is still available as a brand, but most
everywhere those cans appear, they are for plumbers, and are not
recommended for electrical work. They no doubt make a rosin core version
as well, but it is probably so listed. Don't assume that all NOKORODE is
suitable for electrical work without reading the label as you wisely did.
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On Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:30:14 EDT <firstname.lastname@example.org> writes:
> Fred Hopengarten K1VR 781/259-0088
> Six Willarch Road
> Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
> permanent e-mail address: email@example.com
> if sending attachments: firstname.lastname@example.org
> On Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:49:58 -0600 email@example.com writes:
> >Anyone have a good technique for soldering new wires >to old
> weathered connections? K1VR: Remember when you built your first
> Heathkit? The manual told you in
> REALLY BIG LETTERS that you should not use soldering paste (flux). I
> believe that the reason was that, if left alone, it has an acid or
> other corrosive which would do bad things. I wish I knew more about
> why. When I repair broken radials, or splice a Beverage, the tinned
> wire is
> always oxidized. In the past, I would scrape with a pen knife and
> with a small "toothbrush" style wire brush. Or try to use emery
> cloth. It was not a great solution. So I've gone chemical. I went
> to Home Depot looking for soldering paste. The stuff they had
> said: NOT FOR ELECTRCIAL WORK. So I started mentioning my search
> electrical work soldering paste to every "hands on" person I know.
> As most of my friends are effete intellectual snobs, this took a
> while. Finally, I friend said: You need NOKORODE brand soldering
> paste, and I think I have a small tub I can give you. Which he did!
> "Nokorode" (the
> trademark was registered in 1926) soldering paste is made by The
> Dunton Co., of Providence, RI. The label on my two ounce tin (which
> should be good for 2000 radial splices, I estimate) reads: "Put up
> with special reference to the needs of dynamo builders,
> contractors, telephone makers, and the electrical trade in general.
> freely on galvanized iron, lead, tinned steel, and other metals.
> Also used extensively by plumbers and tin workers." Here's how I
> use it. I dab on a very little bit. Very little. Heat the wire and
> it sizzles, melts, spreads down within the stranded wire. Add
> solder. Magic. Wipe off any residue, and your hands, with a fallen
> from the sugar maple tree overhead. (That's the leaf that looks like
> a hockey team logo or a national flag, eh?)
> I wish I knew where to buy Nokorode, but I don't . I'd try a
> supply. But they'll take away my tin of Nokorode only when they
> it from my cold tight hand, stiff from rigor mortis. -- Fred K1VR
> . . .
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