I have always questioned the use of a strong acid on anything not really
needed. Muriatic acid is a dilute (not too dilute) form of Hdrochloirc
acid, HCl, probably the third strongest acid available. In most cases I
have found that the propane tourch heating the copper that has been buffed
with a fine abrasive then adding resin to finish the cleaning. If you must
use an acid try vinigar but wash with a weak solution of baking soda (to
neutralize), then flush with water (to remove unreacted and reaction
chemicals).
I like the idea of both solder and mechanical joints.
Vancouve has lots of rain (called the lower-rain-land) and lately it has
vecome more acidic.
Chris opr VE7HCB
At 08:06 AM 2001-10-17 -0500, Wes Attaway wrote:
>Soldering would be fine, if you do it right. For what it's worth, here is
>how I make those kinds of joints:
>
>1. Clean the pieces; I do this easily by swabbing some muriatic acid on the
>copper and then rinsing with a little water. Muriatic acid is used by
>painters and many metal shops. It cleans copper in just a few seconds; you
>can get a gallon jug (a lifetime supply) at any paint store or places like
>Home Depot for just a few dollars;
>2. Use a propane torch and get plenty of heat; You might be able to use a
>large iron if the pieces are not too big; I have found that a torch really
>does the job and you never have to worry about getting enough heat; large
>pieces of copper can absorb an amazing amount of heat, and sometimes
>outdoors you just never seem to get enough heat with an iron;
>3. I never use silver solder, but I guess that would be fine if you have it;
>I use regular resin core solder, normally the larger size that you can get
>at Home Depot; It will flow nicely and you will get an excellent bond if you
>have real clean pieces and plenty of heat;
>4. For added strength (and if lightning was an issue), put at least one 1/4"
>bolt thru the joint; use flat washers and a lock washer; I normally use
>stainless hardware for this; I actually do this before the joint is
>soldered, leaving it very slightly loose and when the solder runs I quickly
>give the nut a little extra twist;
>5. Swab the entire joint liberally with some roofing compound, or just spray
>it several times with some metal primer and whatever color paint you need to
>use (if appearance is an issue);
>
>I have quite a few of these kinds of joints around my yard, and all have
>been under the surface of the dirt for many years. Not a single one has
>ever come loose.
>
>Wes - N5WA
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-towertalk@contesting.com
>[mailto:owner-towertalk@contesting.com]On Behalf Of Jim Smith
>Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2001 1:07 AM
>To: towertalk@contesting.com
>Subject: [TowerTalk] Shredded Ground
>
>
>
>I'm in the process of building a shack in the basement. I have a
>3" wide strip of copper going from the shack right through the
>basement wall. It sticks out of the wall about 1 ft above grade.
>Until I get the ground rod in the strip has been lying on the
>sidewalk, rather like a copper version of Mick Jagger's tongue
>sticking out the wall and lying there. Well, yesterday, the jerk
>who cut our grass ran his lawnmower over it and shredded it. As
>the inside wall is now finished, it would be a lot of work to
>remove and replace the Cu strip.
>
>My questions.
>
>1. Can I just solder a new piece on? Lightning isn't an issue in
>the Vancouver area but the joint may be underground.
>
>2. If ordinary solder is questionable, how about silver solder?
>
>3. Other suggestions?
>
>TIA for your help.
>
>73 de Jim Smith VE7F0
>
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>
>
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