If you redid that sequence without the flowery backround and better camera
focus I might be able to view it. All it does now is make my eyes water!
Give an old man a break.
Carl
KM1H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Duffy K3LR" <k3lr@k3lr.com>
To: "'Steve Katz'" <stevek@jmr.com>; "'Wayne Kline'" <w3ea@hotmail.com>;
<k7lxc@aol.com>; <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL-259's
Great point Steve!
About once a week I get asked for this link where I show how I solder
PL-259's WITHOUT dielectric damage. Here it is again with pictures:
http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/
I have helped many guys who melt the dielectric by trying to solder the
shield through the holes (even those that made the holes larger). Or worse
yet, try to solder and give up (never making a good connection). Once they
start soldering on the back of the connector (PL-259) they have no more
trouble.
Soldering on the back of the connector is easy and solid. I just finished
soldering my second bag of 100 PL-259s since January 2007. It has been a
busy summer with new phasing lines and chokes on many antenna systems at
K3LR. It takes less than 4 minutes start to finish to install a PL-259 by
soldering on the back of the connector.
73!
Tim K3LR
http://www.k3lr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Steve Katz
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:42 PM
To: 'Wayne Kline'; k7lxc@aol.com; towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL-259's
BTW the round holes are sized as they are for a reason, which is to prevent
intrusion of a soldering instrument all the way into the hole, thereby
avoiding overheating the dielectric of the cable contained beneath the braid
(minimizing cable damage). Most "factory installed" PL-259s are done using
an ~900W welding station to heat the connector body to >230C in about one
second, applying solder to the four holes until it flows into the braid
(about one more second) and then removing the current, so the operation is
completed in 2-3 seconds with absolute minimum damage to the cable. In lieu
of that, a big, fat iron (large, heavy tip) works almost as well and is a
lot more portable. I wouldn't intentionally dig the tip of a soldering gun
"down into" the hole (or a "slot" formed by grinding) if I expected the
connection to be reliable later. -WB2WIK/6
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne Kline [mailto:w3ea@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 10:37 AM
To: k7lxc@aol.com; towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PL-259's
Generic Pl-259 Yikes... Why wait till amphenol changes there design, Just
grab a die grinder with a pencil tip tool or appropriate size drill and
enlarge the holes. So they fit your trusty Weller soldering tip. Been doing
it for YEARS
Wayne W3EA
> From: K7LXC@aol.com> Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 12:01:54 -0400> To:
towertalk@contesting.com> Subject: [TowerTalk] PL-259's> > Howdy --> > I had
to buy a couple of generic non-silver plated, non-Teflon inserted > PL-259's
and discovered that instead of the dinky little round holes in the > body
that they had 2 rectangular slots that were big enough to poke a > soldering
gun tip into with no problem. What a revolutionary idea! It worked great. >
It solves all of the braid attachment problems. Wish someone made a silver >
plated, Teflon inserted PL-259 with rectangular slots. > > Cheers,> Steve
K7LXC> TOWER TECH -> Professional tower services for hams> Cell:
206-890-4188> > > > ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com> _______________________________________________> > > >
_______________________________________________> TowerTalk mailing list>
TowerTalk@contesting.com>
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