GM Ward,
In the past I have avoided having to seal pig-tails by
using an SO-239 female connector mounted on
plexi-glass or aluminum sheeting and PL-259's on the
coax. Sealing the SO-239 is much easier (used RTV or
hot-gun glue, both of which have worked well for me).
I use this on my Quad DE's and on any vertical
antennas.
73, Chuck N7BV
= = = Original message = = =
As long as we're discussing sealing, I have a question
about sealing
coax
pigtails. Waterproofing the end of a coax pigtail can
be difficult
because
of the exposed braid and the stranded center conductor
of most coax.
Both
wick water back into the cable. I've attempted
waterproofing a couple
of
ways - I'm sure the group can suggest some
improvements.
Both methods assume that the jacket has been peeled
back and that I
have a
flat braid pigtail and some center insulator and
exposed center
conductor
forming the other pigtail. Furthermore, the center
insulator is solid
and
the center conductor is stranded. Ring or spade
terminals are the
preferred
termination.
Method #1 - Crimp on the terminals and solder,
flooding the end of the
wire
and braid with solder, attempting to fill the
interstrand volumes.
From the
braid terminal, flood with solder back at least 1 cm.
>From the center
conductor terminal, flood with solder down into the
center conductor.
Paint
entire cable end liberally, but apolitically, with
liquid electrical
tape up
to the terminal. Work the goo into the strands as
much as possible.
Method #2 - Crimp terminal on center conductor and
flood with solder as
in
Method #1. Trim braid to about 1 cm long and solder to
a solid jumper
wire
with terminal soldered on. Now paint with the liquid
electrical tape
as in
Method #1.
The goal of both methods is to form a relatively solid
barrier to water
being wicked into the cable. The pigtails formed by
either method can
be
wrapped with electrical tape, if desired, but the
water barrier should
not
depend on the tape.
73, Ward N0AX
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