A carbide tipped blade in a power saw works just fine, the more teeth the
better the cut. Be sure to use a dust catcher or do it outside and stand
upwind.
David Robbins K1TTT
e-mail: mailto:k1ttt@arrl.net
web: http://www.k1ttt.net
AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jimlux [mailto:jimlux@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Friday, October 09, 2009 21:22
> To: n8de@thepoint.net
> Cc: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Insulators
>
> n8de@thepoint.net wrote:
> > FYI:
> >
> > I discovered a new source for insulator material that I will be using
> > on my 80m tower verticals.
> >
> > At the local 'feed store', I found 1+1/4" fiberglass ROD with a few
> > small pre-drilled holes ... it's designed to be used as an electric
> > fence post. The rod is VERY STRONG and should hold up quite well.
> >
> > The cost for a 6' rod is about $6 .... quite inexpensive. Cutting it
> > into 6+" lengths is quite easy.
>
> I used to use a lot of structural fiberglass in various forms. Whatever
> you cut or drill with will get dull very quickly when working with glass
> composites.. The glass is quite hard (harder than the steel in your
> cutting blades).
>
> If you have a diamond grit blade that works real well (like a tile saw).
> A carbide toothed blade works fairly well, too. An abrasive cutter
> also works, but is messy, melts the plastic matrix, and makes dust to
> boot (which as was pointed out, is nasty stuff).
>
> Don't contemplate taking a 6 foot rod and hacking it into 6"
> insulators.. the rod might be cheap, but the sharpening costs or new
> blades won't be.
>
> I haven't tried it, but cutting it with a shear, axe, or tree branch
> loppers might actually be a better strategy, since it would tend to
> "cleave" the glass fibers, and it's easier to sharpen the blade when it
> gets dull.
>
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