Buy the rebuild kit which comes with all new hardware, trap covers, clamps
etc. I think the kit was 39 bux when I purchased it about 6 years ago. I
used scotch brite to buff up the elements but if I were to do it again, I
would consider steel wool on an electric drill. Sounds like you don't need
the end caps so maybe you can buy the hardware kit without the traps. I
put mine up as a mult antenna on a 50 foot rocket launcher. Even using the
original hygain balun which is only rated at 1 KW, mine worked fine at the
full 1500 watt before some one pointed out that it was only rated for 1000
W. I only used it on the cw weekend in the cw bands, its cut for the cw
band so
The swr was as advertised. With high swr, it might have been a different
story. Next time it goes up I will use one of the force 12 B-1 baluns.
73
Chet N4fX
-----Original Message-----
From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
[mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of k3hx@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 6:15 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rebuilding a TH-3, advice sought.
I'm rebuilding a TH-3 which has been stored under a shed for at least a
decade. The elements are now oxidized to a dark grey with parts of the
elements having bumps of white powder on them.
The trap endcaps are blistered and split, replacements are on hand.
I'd appreciate any hits, tips, pearls of wisdom, advice, cautions or
experience the reader would care to share.
In particular, I do not look forward to removing the oxidation from the
elements with abrasive sponges although I'm willing to do so to assure a
good job. Is there some manner of vile chemistry I can dip the disassembled
elements into, perhaps in a long, shallow tray that will make the job less
labor-intensive?
Also concerned about the traps and assuring that they will not fail in
service. (100w maximum, most of the time...QRP..HI!)
Thanks,
Tim
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