On 4/16/2012 1:19 AM, Mike Baker wrote:
> It is not necessary to coat the anchor bolts with anything.
> When the steel is encased in concrete it cuts of the supply of Oxygen so it
> doesn't rust. If steel rusted inside concrete you would have to galvanize
> rebar.
I'm talking about the threaded bolt above the concrete and exposed to
the elements. I've seen the threads almost gone from bolts that
protrude a few inches above the concrete in an area where water can
accumulate or at least be trapped for a few days at a time.
73
Roger (K8RI)
> Use of an extension type concrete vibrator while doing the pour will spread
> it out and settle any air pockets out of it. If you just place the vibrator
> on the side or top of the bolt when installed for a few seconds it will
> settle the mix around the bolt quite nicely and keep out the air pockets.
> That is a worse case scenario.
>
> Mike Baker K7DD
> K7dd@cox.net
> All QSO's are uploaded to LOTW and EQSL.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of K8RI
> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:45 PM
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Anchor bolts for LM470
>
> On 4/15/2012 10:39 PM, Mike wrote:
>> Dave,
>>
>> That's what I was thinking as well. I have seen people cut off and
>> weld the three LM-470 bolt Ears to a US-Towers "T-Base" which works,
>> but I do not understand what this is about.
> "My thoughts!":
>
> The bolt head, J, flag, or plate only needs to be big enough to prevent the
> anchor from turning, pulling out, or over stressing that small area of
> concrete. I think J-bolts are by far the cheapest and easiest to make if
> you do-it-yourself.
>
> As for "All Thread" which is plain old threaded rod, isn't it a bit soft to
> use? I've never seen it except in ungraded strength. I've been planning on
> using 1" or 1.25" bolts, 3 feet (give or take and boy are they heavy!) long
> with a 1/4" X 6 X 6 or even 4 X 4 flat plate welded on the bottom and a
> couple of 1/4" thick ears welded on the sides at the base for my projects.
> The thing about hard bolts is they rust more easily so they have to be
> protected. You can also tape the threaded portion that goes through the
> base. I'll be using a separate base so the plans call for the bolts to be
> installed in the base which will then be lowered over the hole. The base
> needs to be leveled and secure before the concrete is poured and care used
> to completely encase the bolt heads in concrete with no voids. Protect the
> threads to allow for re leveling the base and removing the base after the
> concrete has cured. Use Tape, Saran Wrap(TM) or what ever comes to mind.
> Then warm them up to about 50C and liberally coat them with thinned tar. If
> necessary recoat with tar about twice as thick as the original coat. If the
> bolts are clean, dry, and fairly warm (or hot) the tar will uniformly adhere
> and not come off. it stinks but it works. Also you can get the nuts off if
> you ever need to. Just don't heat them enough to take the temper out which
> is really hot.
>
> Undoubtedly there are others on here who have alternate methods of
> protecting the base hold down bolts.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>> Mike, K6BR
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
>> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Dave
>> Hachadorian
>> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 7:29 PM
>> To: Towertalk reflector
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Anchor bolts for LM470
>>
>> So how are you guys using anchor bolts on an LM470? Has someone
>> designed an
>> LM470 mounting plate that fits on anchor bolts?
>>
>> Normally the LM470 mounts on a special base section that is buried in
>> concrete. If you want to move the tower, you have to buy another base
>> section from the factory. What are you guys talking about?
>>
>> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
>> Yuma, Arizona
>>
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