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Re: [TowerTalk] RTV where to find and (getting Long Life)

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] RTV where to find and (getting Long Life)
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2014 03:14:03 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
<bunca snipped>
73 Roger (K8RI)

## I was told the RTV used in aquariums,sold at pet stores... does not smell like acetic acid... IE: vinegar. I bought some at the local aquarium store.... and it smells like vinegar ! You would think that the rtv sold in aquarium stores... would not smell like vinegar.... that stuff would surely kill off the fish in any tank.

>You are correct. Somewhere along the supply chain the wrong stuff was ordered.

>HOWEVER. If and it's a big IF the RTV is allowed to Thoroughly cure and out gas the Acetic Acid it would >work for the Aquarium. I'd want it to cure for several days to a week and then set it out in the hot summer sun >to aid the vaporization and out gassing. OTOH I'd still be reluctant to use it on an aquarium for exotic (and >expensive) fish. (EVENTUALLY) and I do not know how long it'd take, the acid would be gone.

## 88 and 33 tape work good. Ok, what do you do where the PL-259 etc..screws into the mating female ? The only thing I have come up with that sorta works is T+B heat shrink, industrial type. Wrap with 33/88 tape 1st..then the heat shrink. U get water into the excess threads on a so-239 female... it will migrate into the Pl-259.

There are a number of ways to do this, each with its own adherents and most are "probably" equally effective.

My preference is to apply flooded heat shrink directly to clean connectors with the end of the tube cut square and butted tightly against the base of the female chassis connector, the same for inline male to female. Apply heat starting at the threaded end and slowly move onto the PL259. The HOT MELT GLUE will fill the threads and be forced a short distance into the PL259 threads preventing the entrance of moisture from that direction.

You can use silicone grease in the threads, but don't get it where you want anything to stick For those ehere the base is tape, followed by what ever, I personally want to see the flooded heat shrink extend at least a half inch past the tape so it can seal directly to the coax jacket, or the end of the connector. Remember, I don't care what the connector looks like after use. Pieces of glue all over the used connector don't hurt it..

## in line splices are easy. male-double female-male. Just wrap with 33/88 tape, then heat shrink the entire mess.

Yup!
 Jim VE7RF

-

73 Roger (K8RI)

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