The RTV that emits vinegar smell uses moisture in its curing so in an
aquarium application, after applying it and letting it cure a little while I
filled the aquarium with water. I changed the water after a couple days and
tossed in a few baby guppies. I needed to change the water again and again
a few days later before trying a few more guppies. I consider the baby
guppies expendable as their parents will eat them given a chance. After a
week and new guppies survived I put the nice tropicals back in. Mea culpa,
mea maxima culpa... I was a poor college student on the Viet Nam GI bill and
did not have the discretionary funds for two kinds of RTV.
Now regarding using the "smelly" RTV on electrical contacts... Bad idea!
Never let that kind of RTV contact your contacts (electrical or
optometrical) or anything you don't want corroded. After sealing a joint,
splice, or whatever really well with tape or whatever then this smelly RTV
can be used as an environmental protective layer but why not get "The Right
Stuff?" and not risk corrosion?
Long live Room Temperature Vulcanizing rubber!
73,
Patrick NJ5G
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger (K8RI) on TT
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 2:14 AM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] RTV where to find and (getting Long Life)
<bunca snipped>
73 Roger (K8RI)
## I was told the RTV used in aquariums,sold at pet stores... does not
smell like acetic acid... IE: vinegar. I bought some at the local
aquarium store.... and it smells like vinegar ! You would think that the
rtv sold in aquarium stores... would not smell like vinegar.... that
stuff would surely kill off the fish in any tank.
You are correct. Somewhere along the supply chain the wrong stuff was
ordered.
HOWEVER. If and it's a big IF the RTV is allowed to Thoroughly cure
and out gas the Acetic Acid it would >work for the Aquarium. I'd want
it to cure for several days to a week and then set it out in the hot
summer sun >to aid the vaporization and out gassing. OTOH I'd still be
reluctant to use it on an aquarium for exotic (and >expensive) fish.
(EVENTUALLY) and I do not know how long it'd take, the acid would be gone.
## 88 and 33 tape work good. Ok, what do you do where the PL-259
etc..screws into the mating female ? The only thing I have come up with
that sorta works is T+B heat shrink, industrial type. Wrap with 33/88
tape 1st..then the heat shrink. U get water into the excess threads on a
so-239 female... it will migrate into the Pl-259.
There are a number of ways to do this, each with its own adherents and
most are "probably" equally effective.
My preference is to apply flooded heat shrink directly to clean
connectors with the end of the tube cut square and butted tightly
against the base of the female chassis connector, the same for inline
male to female. Apply heat starting at the threaded end and slowly move
onto the PL259. The HOT MELT GLUE will fill the threads and be forced a
short distance into the PL259 threads preventing the entrance of
moisture from that direction.
You can use silicone grease in the threads, but don't get it where you
want anything to stick For those ehere the base is tape, followed by
what ever, I personally want to see the flooded heat shrink extend at
least a half inch past the tape so it can seal directly to the coax
jacket, or the end of the connector. Remember, I don't care what the
connector looks like after use. Pieces of glue all over the used
connector don't hurt it..
## in line splices are easy. male-double female-male. Just wrap with
33/88 tape, then heat shrink the entire mess.
Yup!
Jim VE7RF
-
73 Roger (K8RI)
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