And also very important in preventing finger degloving is to never wear
a ring....never. Also *never* go without a gloves when climbing towers.
A simple slip before the safety belt or fall arrest harness saves you,
the slightest protrusion of a bolt or nut can deglove a finger.
Herb, KV4FZ
On 1/4/2015 10:46 AM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
Grant, Thank you for the graphic description of potential injury. I
was getting a little lax in my drill press technique, clearing chips
and such. I have had several close calls but no serious injury. After
having taken the warning comments to heart a New Years resolution has
been made. I will do what is required to be safe and keep my ability
to count to 10.
Thanks, guys.
Patrick NJ5G
On 1/3/2015 1:50 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
One additional comment re SAFETY around rotating machines: NEVER
wear gloves!! Surgeons are great at putting fingers back on or
suturing gashes, but it is often amputation if they encounter a
"degloving injury". These are caused when the tissue is removed
around the finger. That can happen when the glove material catches
on the drill bit, lathe chuck, mill chuck etc. and the glove finger
acts like a Chinese finger torture device, stripping all the tissue
from the finger. ugh. Or worse the glove strips some of the hand.
really ugh.
The chips and swarf in drilling, milling, and turning operations
should be managed with a chip hook about 12 to 18" long, coolant
flushing, or air blast. Better yet, "peck drill" so that short chips
are made. Ideally, a lathe tool should make small chips not stringy
ones as these can "bird nest" and become exceedingly hazardous as
they spin around with the chuck.
Grant KZ1W
On 1/3/2015 12:05 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 1/1/2015 8:56 PM, Doug Renwick wrote:
If he has access to a milling machine or knows a machinist, saddle
clamps are easy to make, particularly if you can find some
relatively small pieces of 1" plate and you can make the flat long
enough for bolt holes instead of notches that require a backing plate.
I realize not everyone has a mill, but they are relatively cheap on
the used market. About 40 years ago, the company I worked for
purchased 2 of the same model used that I have, but theirs were
strictly mechanical feeds except the quill. They only had about 5
speeds available by changing the belt locations on the pulleys. They
paid about $7900 each. I paid less than $3000 IIRC. There isn't a
better drill press made. The mill is RIGID and makes drilling
"round" holes in precise locations with far less risk of bits
hanging and flying parts. They also make drilling holes on a circle
relatively easy. They also give you a reason to refresh that high
school Trig.
A keyless chuck, a set of collets, a few end mills, a vise, and a
little instruction are about all you need.
Used mills with power feeds and digital readouts on the X, Y, and
sometimes ZS axis for around $3000 while strictly mechanical with
quil feed can be found between 1 and 2 thousand dollars. can be found.
A local high school had inexpensive classes on using Lathes, mills,
shapers, surface grinders and welding. It would be a good
investment for the mechanically inclined even if you don't have any
machine tools. You can learn a lot of possibilities. "Beware" of
Fly Cutters! The first time you see one in operation you will know
why I say that.
Speaking of Fly Cutters. They let you cut large holes with smooth
edges, but cutting holes in thin materials with one takes special
techniques and precautions.
One last precaution about working with metals. When the shavings
start peeling off never, ever try to brush them away with a hand
even with leather gloves Those things are sharp and if the bit, or
what ever grabs them the same time you do, those shavings can
removes finger(s) so quickly and cleanly you won't know it happened
at the moment. The mess is likely to alert you before the pain
sets in.
Of course they also require maintenance. Mine is variable speed and
the head needs rebuilding. Some where, some one (not me) hung a
cutter on low speed and sheared the key on the quill. It works fine
for what I do and the collets fit tight enough there's no
slipping. Oh! It weighs 1800 to 2000# so make sure to set it where
you want it when it's delivered and you have help. I moved mine the
length of the shop, then 15 feet South, turned it around and backed
it into place...alone and with no power tools. I made a platform of
2 X 12s and used lengths of 3/4 inch pipe as rollers and a railroad
pry-bar for power. <:-)) So you know why I make that
recommendation<LOL>.
73
\
Roger (K8RI)
Using 2 saddle clamps as you describe is a good idea. I use that to
support/clamp masts on top of a thrust bearing.
Doug
I wasn't born in Saskatchewan, but I got here as soon as I could.
-----Original Message-----
On 12/30/2014 5:48 PM, Byron Tatum wrote:
It might be a little pricy, but how about 2 saddle clamps used with a
pair of straight bolts. If worried about the bolts slipping out, they
do make flat metal plates with 2 holes likely of a size you need to
use
for backing plates.
73
Roger (K8RI)
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