Jim,
Thanks for clarifying.
I called a local fab shop this morning and they will send someone out to me
to look at at the base and come up with a plan.
Since time is an issue, I will go with the cold galv.
Thanks to all who responded!
73's
NJ0F
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Thomson
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 1:06 PM
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Concrete anchor
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 12:05:52 -0400
From: K7LXC@aol.com
To: towertalk@contesting.com, kr5dx@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Concrete anchor
I have a 165ft rotating tower going up next Spring so will not be
putting a larger tower on this base, but it does sound like I need to get a
fab
shop to just go ahead and build me the base. No galvanizers locally so
paint will have to do.
I have a concrete base next to my shop that once had 89ft US Crankup
Tower
on it. The tower is gone, and I acquired a 55ft US Tower that I want to
bolt
to this base for use in my shop. The bolts that once held the bigger
tower
is still there, but I plan to cut them off and install chemical anchors
to
support the smaller bolt pattern. The other option was to fabricate an
adapter plate that would mate the 55ft tower T-base to the bigger bolt
pattern, but this sounds like much more work than simply drilling into
the
concrete and installing new anchors.
I never used chemical anchors for this purpose and would appreciate any
suggestions on size, and where I can source them. The rebar pattern for
the
bigger tower is much wider than the bolt pattern for the smaller tower,
so I
there is little chance for me to hit rebar when I drill. (I suspect I
will
need a BIG drill).
I assume that the big tower is a Rohn of some ilk. Adapting the base
for the new tower is pretty simple - and you don't need anything
fabricated.
There are a couple of tower base options: 1) flat plate for regular
bottom section and 2) pier pin. For 1) you can put the plate on the base
and
use a rotary hammer with concrete coring bit to drill out the bolt holes.
I'm not sure what you mean by a chemical anchor but in this case you'd use
some industrial epoxy to anchor the bolts to the concrete. The same with
the
pier pin.
Either option works although different folks prefer one over the
other.
Cheers & GL,
Steve K7LXC
TOWER TECH
## steve, he is putting up TWO towers. His newly aquired UST-55 crank up
he wants to retrofit
to an existing base that originally had a HDX-589 on it. His 2nd tower
down the road is the
165 ft rotating.
## Hilti does make anchors for doing this, but they are 2 ft long and 2
inch OD....with a 1 inch bolts /
threaded rod that screws into the hilti. Trylon also uses an option for
folks who want to put a tower
on solid rock, using rock anchors. A hole or usually two are drilled deep,
2-4 ft deep, and typ 2-3 inchs
OD,. The anchor rod is placed into the hole dead center..and the expanding
epoxy goop is pumped in.
Trylon used special huge L shaped feet for this rock anchor setup.... but as
far as I know, it was made for
only 2 x anchor rods per tower leg. U need a special drill for this
application and the entire process
is usually trbl free. having a custom made adaptor plate makes better
sense. If u can’t get it hot dipped
galvanized, then use cold galvanizing paint...like several coats of it.
The rustoleum brand sold in home depot
in large, tall rattle cans works very well....... a lot better than all the
other brands I have bought at the local
machine shops around town. The rustoleum stuff in home depot is not only
cheaper, the cans are taller.
It lasts forever. drys super fast, so additional coats can be applied.
The various brands from the machine shops
worked... but not for long, rust would creep through after a few months.
I have also used the rustoleum stuff on welds that I had done beneath my
car, subframe connectors welded
on my mustang etc. They still look the same after day 1...and that was 3
yrs ago. I also used it on several
other projects, all outside.
Jim VE7RF
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