Blah, blah, 1200 feet of open wire feeders, etc.
Some of these so called "hams" have room for "1200 feet of open wire feeders"
etc….
This radio "hobby" has sure changed. I guess it's about money and acreage, the
boys with the bigger toys and money wins, something.
Dale
On 12, Mar 2016, at 17:57, towertalk-request@contesting.com wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: F12 C19XR Rivets (Patrick Greenlee)
2. Re: PEX tubing for antenna spacers? (Roger (K8RI) on TT)
3. Re: [Bulk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers? (Grant Saviers)
4. Fwd: RG6 coax question (Hans Hammarquist)
5. Re: F12 C19XR Rivets (Kevin Stover)
6. Open-wire spacers (Steve Walter)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 12:09:39 -0600
From: Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets
Message-ID: <56E45B63.2050107@windstream.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
The new F150 pickups use aluminum extensively.
On 3/12/2016 11:56 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
> When US steel found out about the proposed aluminum
> car body manufacturing method, they went beserko, and the politicians
> quickly finished off the idea....never to be mentioned again. Rust
> doesnt sleep..and aluminum doesn?t rust.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 13:23:00 -0500
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers?
Message-ID: <56E45E84.4040804@tm.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I'd avoid the "water pipe" due to lack of UV resistance.
"I think" you will find the plastic water pipe will turn brittle with
long term exposure to UV. NOTE, I have not used plastic water pipe in
this situation and base the "I think" on experience with similar
plastics exposed to UV.
I use 4' of 1/2" PVC conduit for spacers at the ends of a fan dipole for
75/80. At present it's just two wires, but I plan on going to 3 or 4.
They aren't heavy enough to cause any problems ( so far) The antenna is
under considerable tension. It is held in place by a 5/16th double
braid poly rope through a pulley near the top of the 100' 45G. The
armstrong method of tensioninng is being replaced with simple winches.
Unlike Jim, my end spreaders are under considerable tension (linear
compression) and are still holding after 3 to 5 years with no noticeable
deterioration from UV.
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/AntennaSpreader1.htm
73 es good luck,
Roger (K8RI)
On 3/12/2016 Saturday 11:43 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On Sat,3/12/2016 8:28 AM, Larry Banks wrote:
>> (The white stuff that I have microwave tested is not UV resistant, so
>> there is a question about how long it will last outside.)
>>
>> As it is very light weight and seems to be fairly rigid, it looks
>> like a good candidate for this purpose. Any experience with this
>> stuff out there?
>
> Most PVC conduit is labeled as "UV resistant," and the spacers I've
> made using 1/2-in PVC conduit has held up fairly well. I wouldn't put
> stress on it, but it works for a pretty long time as spacers. PVC
> conduit is so cheap and easy to cut and drill, why would you want to
> use something that probably has no UV resistance?
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 11:50:47 -0800
From: Grant Saviers <grants2@pacbell.net>
To: Larry Banks <larryb.w1dyj@verizon.net>, Tower Talk
<towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] [Bulk] PEX tubing for antenna spacers?
Message-ID: <56E47317.4040804@pacbell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I use square grey PVC rod from McMaster, UV proof, easy to drill, your
choice 3/8, 1/2" or larger. My fan dipole has 30" separation at the
ends so I used 3/8".
http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-squares/=11idlcr
another choice is sch80 pvc pipe in 1/4 or 3/8" ips sizes. McMaster
again, probably cheaper locally.
Common PEX, I think regardless of color, is not UV proof as others have
mentioned.
Grant KZ1W
On 3/12/2016 8:28 AM, Larry Banks wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone used 1/2? PEX tubing (normally used for plumbing) as a spacer for
> open-wire line or fan-dipoles? (PEX is cross-linked polyethylene.)
>
> It is cheap in 5? lengths, easy to work, and passes the microwave oven test,
> so it isn?t conductive. (The white stuff that I have microwave tested is not
> UV resistant, so there is a question about how long it will last outside.)
>
> As it is very light weight and seems to be fairly rigid, it looks like a good
> candidate for this purpose. Any experience with this stuff out there?
>
> 73 -- Larry -- W1DYJ
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:11:26 -0500
From: Hans Hammarquist <hanslg@aol.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Fwd: RG6 coax question
Message-ID: <1536c747d1f-24f6-4c79@webprd-a103.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
You could get water in the cable if there is/are a crack/s or pinholes in the
jacked, and that doesn't have to be big. A corroded screen will cause
attenuation (and associated noise) and that will not show up with any simple
isolation test. Test the cable with an SWR meter. You check what SWR you get
with the other end open or shorted. Low SWR = cable attenuation. (That's how I
test my cable installations) The MFJ 269 has a built-in calculator for that.
Hans - N2JFS
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Stallman <ed.n5dg@gmail.com>
To: towertalk <towertalk@contesting.com>
Sent: Sat, Mar 12, 2016 8:52 am
Subject: [TowerTalk] RG6 coax question
Howdy Tower Talkers , My question is if water can get into the RG6 coax
through the outer cover ? The RG6 I'm using is Commscope but it's not
the flooded ! I lay the coax on the ground to a HI-Z Receive 4 SQ , so I
can remove it in the spring and reinstall in the Fall . The RG6-F-
connectors are 8 to 12 inches off the ground and taped good , so if
water is getting in, it would have to come in through the insulation ...
if that's possible ? I'm asking these questions because the HI-Z RX 4SQ
uses a Bias T throu the 4 phasing lines and if water or moister gets in
it will create noise and I have noise in 3 of the 4 directions ! 8.5
inches of rain in 2 days is allot of water !
Thanks Ed N5DG
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------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:46:56 -0600
From: Kevin Stover <kevin.stover@mediacombb.net>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] F12 C19XR Rivets
Message-ID: <56E48E50.7070104@mediacombb.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
I believe the cabs and beds are all 5000 or 6000 series Al. 5000 in low
stress areas like the cowl, cab floor and inner door panels, 6000 series
is used in high stress areas like the cab, sills, and A-Pillars.
The Aluminum is glued, riveted and screwed in place. Very few spot
welds. Spot welding aluminum requires higher electric currents and some
means of removing the oxidized coating that covers the surface. Thus the
reason aircraft are riveted.
The proof of concept was 40 Mercury Sables from 1995 and the 2003 Jag XJ.
If I remember correctly they saved about 250-300lbs of weight on the F-150.
On 3/12/2016 12:09 PM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
> The new F150 pickups use aluminum extensively.
>
> On 3/12/2016 11:56 AM, Jim Thomson wrote:
>> When US steel found out about the proposed aluminum
>> car body manufacturing method, they went beserko, and the politicians
>> quickly finished off the idea....never to be mentioned again. Rust
>> doesnt sleep..and aluminum doesn?t rust.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk@contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2016 18:57:01 -0500
From: Steve Walter <stevewalter90@gmail.com>
To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: [TowerTalk] Open-wire spacers
Message-ID:
<CA+SDT63wn48SaOd-Tj34J_P+iW6DMYjz-cxQY9c7dsEPsjE3NQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I have had over 1200' of home brew open-wire feedline outside for about
five years. I use the polyethylene black water pipe sold at my local
Tractor Supply store. It comes in large rolls and I believe is 1/2" inside
dia. It has shown no sign of degradation. I run it through a jig on my
radial arm saw to cut it to length (2" for me) then I drill holes in each
end that are sized to hold my wire snugly. Finally I saw slits in each end
to slide the wire to the hole. The worst part is snapping the wire into
the slot...tough on the fingers if you do 1200' of it! I use insulated
stranded 14 gauge wire which grips nicely with the spacer. They CAN be
slid around if needed but dont move on their own. Bare wire might not grip
so well.
73, Steve WA3A
------------------------------
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End of TowerTalk Digest, Vol 159, Issue 47
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