Tower Talkers: Freeing up aluminum to aluminum joints is not NEARLY as
hard as posters here make it out to be! A couple of easy to follow rules
first. 1. Never move a metal to metal joint without proper lubrication.
2. Never move a metal to metal joint at any temperature that you cannot
hold your hand on it.
Start by using a good lube.... I use PB Blaster or Kroil, haven't
yet tried Mouse Milk. Spray the joint thoroughly with the lube. Now
apply some heat to both sides of the joint, when the lube smokes and
burns off, you've gotten the joint to around 400 F. Wet a shop rag and
quench the joint until you can hold your hand on it. Spray again with
lube, heat and quench. Do this a total of three times. After the third
lube, heat and quench, wipe off the joint and re-apply a small amount of
lube. Screw- type hose clamps 2 or 3 placed BEHIND the overlap area, and
2 or 3 on the smaller tubing, spaced to allow turning with channel locks
or striking with a small hammer will free the joint. I make it a point
to rotate first, then if necessary, use a whammer. Using hose clamps
placed tightly against each other will distribute the load, but not
collapse the tubing. I have removed broken studs and bolts up to 3
inches dia. by using the heat and quench method. Try it and tell
everyone at your radio club, they'll thank you!
73, Mike W5CHR
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