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Re: [TowerTalk] Sad news N5IA SK in tower fall (Shawn Donley - N3AE)

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Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sad news N5IA SK in tower fall (Shawn Donley - N3AE)
From: Bob K6UJ <k6uj@pacbell.net>
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 08:33:18 -0700
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Shawn,

It makes sense to me. Like you said, no energy wasted on the climb with hooking/unhooking the lanyards. If you need something while you are up there, you can lower a line down to the helper (belayer) on the ground to attach what is needed. If he needs to go away to get the item he can tie the line off until he returns. I like it. I was looking at rope climbing gear on line and really liked the Petzl descender. It would be great to lower yourself down after working up on the tower. I am thinking of taking a good quality climbing rope up with me and trying the descender for getting down. I use full safety gear, and always attached, but I climb by myself without a ground person a lot (I know this is wrong to not have a helper) In my case I invariably forget something or realize I need another tool or something and have to climb back down and get the item and then climb back up. It would be so much easier to "descend" with a climbing rope. Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do ?

Bob
K6UJ

On 6/15/16 6:10 AM, N3AE wrote:
It's with some trepidation that I respond to this thread, but there''s one 
other climbing technique I have not seen mentioned in this forum.

For modest height towers, say up to 75 feet, why not climb it like a top-roped 
rock climb? Have two (redundancy) mountaineering grade locking carabiners 
secured at the top of the tower with a suitable temporary rope loop (like 3/16 
Dacron) going to the ground through the carabiners. On the day of the climb, 
use the temporary rope to pull some 9 to10mm static line (like BlueWater 
Assaultline) through the carabiner to the ground.

Attach your harness to the climbing rope and have a competent and properly equipped 
belayer on the ground to take up the rope and protect you during the climb. 
"Competent" in this context means someone you trust your life to and vice 
versa...i.e. a fellow climber.

Advantages:

1. Always on slight rope tension (provided by the belayer) so minimal fall 
distance and shock loads.
2. No energy expenditure (or fatigue related mistakes) hooking and unhooking 
safety lanyards to the tower during the climb.
3. Can concentrate on the climb with less distraction.

Disadvantages:

1. Need to climb in a conventional safe manner once to get the carabiners 
installed.
2. Carabiners will need replaced periodically
3. Need a competent and experienced belayer

Some comments on rope:

A typical "dynamic" climbing rope with zero slack (belayer has slight tension) 
will elongate by about 10% with a 180 lb climber on it. Example: 60 ft tower. Say you are 
only10 ft up the tower. So ~ 110 ft of rope between you and the belayer. If you fall, the 
rope will stretch about 10 ft (but like a bungee) and you WOULD land on the ground but 
softly. Fall near the top: ~ 60 ft of rope between you and the belayer. So you'd bungee 
down about 6 ft. In either case, there could be risk of injury if an arm or a leg was 
across a tower brace prior to or during the fall.

A "static line" typically used for mountain rescue or rappelling into caves, has an 
elongation < 3% (for a 300 lb load), so in the above example, the "fall distance) would be < 
3 ft and <1.5 ft.

A "dynamic" climbing rope will be better at reducing shock loads in a fall, but I'd be 
concerned about possible arm or leg injury if either got across a tower brace member prior to or 
during the fall. That's why I'm thinking a "static" type rope and zero slack at all times 
(belayer responsibility).

I've climbed towers and rock for many years. Not so much rock now that I'm older. Always 
felt safer on a top-roped rock climb, even compared to climbing towers with conventional 
"always attached" technique and gear.

So how DO I climb towers? I use conventional methods and gear following the "always 
attached" philosophy only because I rarely have an experienced rock climber around 
to belay. Nevertheless, having been on both towers and rock, I wonder which technique 
would be better (safety and efficiency)?

OK. Ready for the incoming stones and rocks.

N3AE




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