I agree with Grant on PTFE. At work IIRC we had a glue and an epoxy
that would stick to Teflon. OTOH , why spend $17 and a LOT more
effort/work to weatherproof a PL259, or N connector, when "most" good
old home remedies work? Often one or two layers of 66 or 88 tape will
be sufficient. I learned long ago to cut the tape rather than pulling
it apart. Remember how difficult it can be to lift a cut end off a roll
of tape? The same holds true for wraps on connectors. Yes, I know
there are those who say water always leaks in along the tap edges, but
in over 56 years, I've never seen it. I realize I'm only one out of
hundreds of thousands, but if it works for me, why not others.
NOTE: Whether the sealant "sticks" to the connectors is far less
important than preventing water from getting into, or under the wrap.
IF the ends are properly sealed, water can't get under the whole mess.
Get hams to spend $17 to weatherproof a connector when they reuse $3.00,
PL259s? Ain't gonna happen! Many, if not most use the cheap imported
PL259s, rather than Amphenol, or the good imports to save a buck, or 50
cents. It costs me about a dollar for a weatherproofing method that
has never failed me. I see no reason to change. If I used coax larger
than LMR600, then I'd consider a different method. OTOH ham radio is
about developing alternative methods and modes. Why not experiment?
Generally we have little to lose and much to gain.
Warming the connectors before sealing is very helpful.
When it comes to lightning, nothing will offer 100% protection.
Don't forget corona. It's probably more common than lightning damage,
goes unnoticed and can melt tape, coax jackets, remove plating on
connectors, and leave brass connectors looking like they were sand
blasted. It also can cause copper to turn black.
73,
Roger (K8RI)
On 10/8/2017 Sunday 3:04 PM, Grant Saviers wrote:
Not much sticks to TFE.
The Andrews/Heliax waterproofing kits are the best IMO. The sticky
sealant tape may be tight enough to prevent wicking on TFE coax,
especially if the 2" wide electrical tape is used to compress it as
per instructions. It works great on Heliax and DIN connectors so it
conforms well.
http://www.commscope.com/catalog/doc/pdf/2004/Weatherproofing_Kit_for_Connectors_and_Antennas.pdf
Another advice from Andrew, preheat the connectors prior to placing
the adhesive lined heat shrink. Particularly important on big Heliax
connectors but I do it on PL259's and the adhesive really sticks then
to the body.
Rather than invent marginal waterproofing, why not use what is proven
in many thousands of commercial installations? Last I bought the kits
were about $17 and will do a dozen UHF connections. on ebay for $12 -
$20.
Grant KZ1W
On 10/8/2017 11:18 AM, john@kk9a.com wrote:
I have not tried hot glue however I have trouble with other
waterproofing
products that I use sticking to Teflon coax and I do not have grease
or oily
finger prints on it.
John KK9A
To: "towertalk@contesting.com" <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [TowerTalk] weatherproofing connectors visited.
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2017 02:39:48 -0400
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
The answer for the hot melt glue not adhering is simple foreign
material. A
fingerprint, lube used to flood connectors, or just plain skin oil/sweat
will prevent hot melt glue, or tape from forming a good mechanical
connection. This is a place where cleanliness is important.
For good adhesion whether tape or hot melt glue, the connectors and coax
must be clean. The tape and/or the hot melt glue must adhere with no
voids
--
73
Roger (K8RI)
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73
Roger (K8RI)
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