On 7/21/20 1:26 PM, Steve Maki wrote:
On 07/21/20 15:49 PM, jimlux wrote:
I've seen similar issues and no longer depend on the normal bolt and
nut shield connection when there is a layer of PVC involved which is
compressed by the bolt & nut. Any shrinking of the PVC will cause an
intermittent connection. Most commercial baluns are still made this way.
Or 4 nuts - nut1 wire nut2 pvc nut3 wire nut4
The preload between nut1 and nut2 and the preload between nut3 and
nut4 are what make the contact. Takes two wrenches to get it tight
enough.
I thought of that, but then you have a nut between the SO239 flange and
the box. It starts getting messy. BTW just so we're on the same page -
the connector flange is on the outside of the box, which is almost where
it has to be for ease of assembly.
I was thinking of the *wire* connections (e.g. to the driven element)
where you'd have two studs that you'd hook a wire with a lug to.
Instead I replace one of the 4 machine screws with a solid #14 or #12
wire that is soldered to the SO239 and sticks into the box 3/4" or
1", which the coax shield can then be soldered to.
That works fine for a coax connector, although now you've got a
"non-disconnectable" connection.
The center conductor is soldered to the center pin, and the braid is
soldered to the *ground pin*. What's not dis-connectable?
Actually, a banana jack/plug would probably work. They're spring
loaded, so they don't have thermal cycling issues.
I realize now the OP was talking about the antenna/binding post side of
the box. I haven't had a problem on that side, probably because there is
a large flat washer on either side of the PVC.
Yes..
-Steve K8LX
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