That is the normally only place safety ground and neutral should connect.
.... New installations of ranges and clothes dryers must have a separate
green or bare grounding conductor.
Now, there is an exception for existing installations. I have put *BOLD*
emphasis on parts that may apply to your question. The text in brackets
[ ] is not part of the NEC but explanations added by me.
...only where an equipment grounding conductor *[green wire]* is not
present in the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges,
wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, *clothes dryers*, and
outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these
appliances *shall be permitted* *to be connected to the grounded circuit
conductor [white neutral wire]* if *all* the following conditions are met.
(1) The supply circuit is *120/240-volt single-phase, 3-wire*; or
208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system.
(2) The grounded conductor is *not smaller than 10 AWG copper* or 8 AWG
(3) The *grounded conductor [white wire] is insulated,* or the grounded
conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service-entrance cable
and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment.
(4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment
are bonded to the equipment *[any built-in receptacles on your dryer
have a ground connection (green wire) to the metal frame of the dryer]*.
On 11/10/2011 12:07 PM, ron wrote:
> On 11/09/2011 04:43 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> I just had a new Sear dryer delivered and hooked it up per the
>> instructions. For a four wire service, it calls for neutral to be
>> bonded to green at the dryer. I didn't want to do that (it violates NEC
>> and good engineering practice), so I didn't hook up the neutral, and
>> connected green to the chassis.
> It defies logic because back at the service panel, the white and green
> share the same connection.
> Ron, wb1hga
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