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Re: Topband: soldering radials

To: cx6vm.jorge@gmail.com, topband@contesting.com
Subject: Re: Topband: soldering radials
From: "GeorgeWallner" <aa7jv@atlanticbb.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 10:47:19 -0400
List-post: <topband@contesting.com">mailto:topband@contesting.com>
On Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:00:10 -0400
  Charles Moizeau <w2sh@msn.com> wrote:
> 
> It has been my experience at this QTH in NJ that 
>soldered connections outdoors do not do well with solder 
>that contains lead.  Over time the connections all turn 
>dull and often the solder on a well-soldered joint will 
>crumble over time.
> 
Jorge,

I use No. 16 multi-strand, tinned, insulated wires for 
radials. They are soldered to a ring made of 1/2 inch 
copper pipe that is 2 inches above the concrete pad 
surrounding my TX vertical. The solder joints were made 
with regular Tin/Led (60/40) solder and were covered by a 
thick layer of heavy, insulating varnish (paint). The 
installation is about 4 feet from the seawall and is 
exposed to salt water spray. After 6 years all the joints 
remain perfect due to the paint. (Any exposed joints would 
have long corroded away.) Regardless whether you are 
soldering or crimping the radial wires, the joints must be 
protected against the entry of water and salt. I do not 
think there is any difference in the quality of soldered 
or crimped joints as long as they are made well and are 
properly insulated. (Although I prefer soldered joints, 
when using crimped joints, in addition to the insulation, 
I add a small amount of copper-grease between the wires 
and the crimp terminals. I work a lot on boats, where the 
environment is very corrosive due to the salt water. 
Because of the vibration, crimped joints are preferred, 
and I have found that they do well when prepared as 
described above.)

GL es 73,

George, AA7JV
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