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[TowerTalk] Soldering connectors

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Subject: [TowerTalk] Soldering connectors
From: kz5qdx@communique.net (Douglas Bradford)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 1998 22:53:40 -0500
Plastic pipe tools and cutters

Press, back in late 60's,Dupont came out with a pipe for
natural gas systems. And had all kinds of tools to go with
this new method back then. They had a very small pipe
cutter for cutting 5/8 pipe. As you stated, you must have
the right cutter wheel and they make all kinds, Cast Iron,
Steel, Etc. Very thin and sharp wheel and Like Al says
I now when It is sharp. I tried it back then and had used
it every since. Now if is just have one to make, I have the
Buck Electrician's knife in my pocket and it stays sharp.
But if I am going to make up some Jumpers and new run
to tower, I get the cutters out.  They are not any longer
than 2 1/2" at the most and weigh nothing.I use the Pipe
cutter, like a limb trimmer but miniature to cut coax It
has a half circle to put the pipe in to cut it. The use the
wheel of do the other. For me it works super.

Yes there are a lot that do not need to try this method.
And Also, I have run Alpha's and Henrys thru it for
nearly 30 years. But you can look at it when U cut it
and tell if you did a good job, if not, lick the calf again/

n8ug@juno.com wrote:

> Hello Al,
> While this procedure might work well for one person like yourself who
> understands the possible consequences, it is basically flawed because
> tubing cutters right out of the box are too dull and have too wide of a
> "vee" shape  to make a clean cut through the various media without
> turning the ends of the shield and/or foil in toward the center conductor
> while leaving an impression in the dielectric that is a radius instead of
> a right angle as required to properly seat against the inner face of the
> connector. Further, once tinned, it would be most difficult to re-trim
> the butt end back to square.
> While a nice neat job with a tubing cutter might perform apparently well
> with low power HF, the electrical characteristics would differ from the
> ideal, and the insertion loss at the higher frequencies could increase
> significantly, especially with the various foam dielectrics. At high
> voltage, the margin for error with respect to arcing is reduced as well.
> Be careful!
> In many years of doing the bloomin'  things, we've never seen a better
> tool than an electrician's knife (or pocket knife in the same shape) in
> the hands of a good technician. We now do hundreds of them every month
> and the only other tool on the bench that cuts is a cuticle scissors for
> those errant strands that want to peek over the edge of the dielectric!
> Yes, we've tried several dozen pet ideas from the trade, etc., including
> a modified tubing cutter, and all have been sent back or junked except
> for one little Swedish tool for CATV 6 and 59.
> 73,
> Press Jones, N8UG, The Wireman, Inc., Landrum, SC, 29356
> Sales (800)727-WIRE(9473) or  orders@thewireman.com
> Tech help (864)895-4195 or  n8ug@thewireman.com
> www.thewireman.com  and the WIRELINE bargain page
> Our 21st year!
>
> On Sun, 26 Jul 1998 10:56:50 EDT ATanner283@aol.com writes:
> >
> >Hi all....I saw a post a little while back about soldering
> >difficulties with
> >213 coax. Here is a system I have been using with great success. Get
> >yourself
> >a small tube cutter, the kind you use for copper tubing. Score the
> >plastic
> >outer shield with it. Just go deep enuff to barely cut thru the
> >plastic only.
> >This makes a nice "square " cut. Next, tin the braid. Now take the
> >cutter
> >again and make a deep score in the tinned braid the correct distance
> >from the
> >outer covering. Flex the braid a couple of times and it will separate
> >in a
> >very nice "square" end also. Now take the cutter and cut thru the
> >plastic down
> >to the wire. I usually don't go the full depth so as not to "ding" the
> >center
> >connector. Tin center connector. If you have made your lengths correct
> >it will
> >screw together tightly and the braid WILL fit in the 259 right up to
> >the holes
> >and past so you can make a very nice connection inside and out. I know
> >there
> >are variations of this but this works super for me. I ahve used it on
> >2213,and
> >RG 58. Also with foam, plastic, and air dieletrics. I have also used
> >it on the
> >extra flexible 213 that I bought last year and it works super. Another
> >feller
> >ham told me about this, so I am not the originator by any means. Good
> >luck and
> >73  Al / W8FAX
> >
> >--
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> >
> >
>
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--
73  Brad  KZ5Q
Long  Live  CW
Preferred  Mode
10mtr#97 CW WAZ



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