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[Towertalk] Re: Knots

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: [Towertalk] Re: Knots
From: rudym@net-link.net (Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 20:21:31 -0500
Here is some info from one of my basic knot books, KNOTS FOR CLIMBERS, =
by Craig Luebben.  I am not a pro climber or knot man either.

Relative strength of knots:

No knot            100%
Figure 8            70-75%
Double bowline  70-75%
Double fisherman  65-70%
Water knot            60-70%
Over hand knot    60-65%
Clove hitch            60-65%
Square knot            45%

"Tying into the rope...Figure 8 Follow Through (Flemish Bend) is the =
most widely used tie-in knot because it is strong, secure, and easy to =
visually inspect."

The Double Bowline is most useful for tying anchor ropes around trees =
and other features.  Some sport climbers perfer it for tying into the =
rope because it has a smaller profile than the Figure 8 and it unties =
easily after being excessively weighted.  Unfortuneately, because the =
Double Bowline does untie so easily, it has resulted in several injuries =
and deaths.  A secure back up knot is essential, but a Figure 8 Follow =
Through is still a safe tie in knot."

Use a Double Fisherman's knot as the back up knot on both the Figure 8 =
and Double Bowline knots.

A "Extra Pass" can be used instead of a Double Fisherman's to back up a =
Figure 8.  It uses less rope and provides a smaller profile.

The "Figure 8 on a Bight" is a good knot to put in the middle of the =
rope for connecting anchors or clipping into the middle of the rope, or =
at any time you need a strong knot in the middle of the rope.  It is =
used with a carbiner (preferably locking) to connect a haul line, gear =
to a haul line, isolate a damaged section of rope, and is the best knot =
to tie into primary anchors.

This book is a great thing to have around.  ISBN 0-934641-58-7.  I paid =
$3.95 for it but forget where.  Lee's Sport shop in Kalamazoo, I think.  =
Lots of cool climbing stuff there too. =20
Rudy Marcelletti, K8SWD


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