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Re: [TowerTalk] house bracket rust stains

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] house bracket rust stains
From: "Sadtip" <sad.tip@verizon.net>
Reply-to: sad.tip@verizon.net
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:59:47 -0400
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Thanks to all for the suggestions.
Got a few ideas that might help now:-)

73's
RoD
KD0XX

A good friend will come and bail you out of jail,
A TRUE friend will be sitting next to you saying.....


"DAMN THAT WAS FUN"

> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces@contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jarvis
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 7:36 AM
> To: towertalk@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] house bracket rust stains
> 
> 
> 
> TT:
> 
> The idea of using non-galvanized metal as a bracket system
> isn't very appealing.  Wood can be painted to match the house,
> and spreads the loads to prevent siding damage.
> 
> I have routinely made my house brackets from treated lumber,
> and not used the Rohn bracket.  Three reasons:  The Rohn is
> too flexible.  The Rohn stands out from the house too far.
> The Rohn doesn't spread the load across the structure enough.
> 
> None of my applications have had a deep-eave to clear; at worst,
> just a 4" gutter plus facia.  If I had an 18" eave...I'd build a
> rohn bracket into my wood system.
> 
> I've used 2x8's, spread over 4' of siding, lag screwed into
> the joists. If I need more standoff, I double the 2x8
> and use longer lags.  On each side, I add a piece of 2x6, which is
> held by carriage bolts coming from the backside of the 2x8 tie.
> Those bolts are long enough to also hold a 2x6, which passes
> through the tower, to hold it in place.
> 
> So, side loads are captured by the 2x6's and transferred into
> sheer loads on the carriage bolts.  Pullout loads are captured
> by a 2x6 in sheer, and transferred to tensile loads on the
> carriage bolts and lags.  Nice and solid.  I've used it for 25g, 
> 45g to 50',
> and MA-40's.
> 
> A brief word on the fasteners:  The lags are usually 1/2"x12".
> YOU MUST DRILL PILOT HOLES.  For a 4' tie-beam, I use six of these,
> 2 each in each of the 3 intersected joists.  The Carriage bolts are
> 1/2", and have to pass through a sandwich of 3 or more 2x8's or 6's.
> At 1.75 each, that's a minimum of 5.25".  So 6" bolts are the minimum.
> Use large flat washers with all bolts.  Excess length is not a virtue;
> you will bash knuckles.
> 
> This system requires some planning, and determining position of internal
> wall, roof and floor truss structures, before tieing into them.  If you
> can thru-bolt with a back plate, rather than use lags, it's obviously
> better, and easier.
> 
> Removal has proven zero damage to the siding, with three installs,
> apart from the lag screw holes, which are easily filled and painted.
> 
> N2EA
> 
> Jim Jarvis, President
> The Morse Group, LLC
> 732 548 5573 office
> www.themorsegroup.net
> results@themorsegroup.net
> 
> Strategic Planning and Success Strategies
> for Sales Professionals and Entrepreneurs.
> 
> Sales Excellence Series beginning September 19, 2007
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 
> 
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