> Ever since I moved here I always seem to have some LONG cable run that
> needs
> to be buried just enough to avoid a mower encounter....
>
> The really large hard-line run, plus assorted control cables, beverage
> cable,
> shack cable bundle, etc... (probably 800 feet worth), were handled with a
> rental trencher. Worked great. Not inexpensive plus a few hours driving
> and a
> 100 miles of back and forth gas... Not conducive to impulse creation.
>
> Has anyone here ever built or acquired a simple, small plow blade, scoop,
> digger suitable for a decent sized garden tractor yet capable of digging
> enough
Take a look at the blade and feeder the power company uses to bury the
natural gas lines feeding the customer.
If only going down 3 or 4 inches max a fairly simple system can be built you
can hook to a medicum size garden tractor with little expense if you have
access to some welding equipment.
This works quite well if you soil is not full of rocks or comprised of dry
clay.
There are three primary elements to the device. Four if you count the hitch.
The 2" wide cut might pose a power problem and take a bit more construction
skill to produce something that would leave the yard without looking like a
freshly plowed field. With a sharp cutter and flare at the back the sod will
roll back neately in such a manner that you only have to roll it back into
place and press it down. (Plows and some cultivator shoes have a piece that
does this but after more than 50 years I've forgotten the name) However in
planting something nearly 2" in diameter you need to put it far enough below
the surface to be able to hide (and protect) it.
The first part is a hook shaped cutter with the leading edge sharpened (not
sharp as in cutting sharp, but the leading edge needs to form a relatively
sharp angle. The bottom of this pieces is flat with the back side curved
similar to the front but with out sharpening. It can be cut from 1/4 or
1/2" steel although the narrower material means more wear on the pipe
through which the cable runs. OTOH it should be easier to pull and cost a
bit less.
Second: Near the front you need to add a flat piece sticking out from each
side. This piece can be of steel angle. It needs to provide enough area to
ride on the surface and prevent the hoe from digging in. This controls the
depth of the cut. It also needs to either be tilted up on the front end or
have the front curved enough so it doesn't dig in. You cut a slot or slots
in the actual cutter so the position of the shoe can be adjusted to control
the depth.
The third element is the part that buries the cable. This can be pipe, or
even EMT conduit. It is bent to fit the shape of the rear side of the cutter
with the bottom end coming out horizontal and flush with the bottom of the
cutter. It doesn't hurt to let it extend 3 or 4 inches beyond the back of
the cutter. The top end of the feeder/pipe/tube needs to be belled out or
rounded and polished so it doesn't damage the cable being fed.
If you drive slow the cable can be fed manually, or a rack to hold a spool
can be mounted on the back of the tractor.
With a bit of inguinity you can build a trailer like device to hold both the
device for burying the cable and holding the spool of cable although that
sounds just a bit elaborate for the use to which most of use would put it.
This might make a good club activity if there is enough need to warrant the
construction of one.
BTW the same device can be used to bury radials just beneath the surface
although it doesn't need to be near as "beefy" to just cut a slot in the
grass and lay the wire.
Just some thoughts.
Roger (K8RI)
> trench to bury control line, RG6 bev lines or even a run of RG8 (I use
> that
> generically).... Something in the 1 - 2 inch deep by 1 or 2 inch wide
> category....
>
> 73 de Bill
> K2EK
>
>
>
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