Hi Chas,
The Delhi-brand tower sections---including the base extensions that are placed
inside the concrete base---have bolt holes at each end for attaching to the
next section(s)...the extensions are essentially the "legs" of the tower
sections minus the cross-braces.
The manufacturer recommends inserting long bolts through the bottom holes of
each extension (again, the parts that are imbedded within concrete) to ensure
(I guess) a firmer "bond" within the concrete after it has set, afforded by the
fact that these bolts protrude 90-degrees from the plane of each extension...
Sorta like the barb on the business end of a fish hook...
~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
************************************************************************************************************************
On 2011-07-05, at 11:46 PM, chas wrote:
> On 6/29/11 8:35 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:
>> Hi Mike,
>>
>> The DELHI-brand self-supporting tower instructions here do not
>> specifically reference the necessity of coating the in-cement leg
>> extensions with ANYTHING...
>>
>> They DO, however, explicitly state that you must install long bolts
>> through holes in the extensions at the bottom, to ensure that the things
>> won't somehow extricate themselves from the concrete.
>>
>> ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
>
> Eddy...
>
> ok, can you say that again? my understanding is that he is taking a 10'
> section of 45 and putting 5' of that into a hole and then filling it with
> concrete.
> Same thing I did with a 25G. Btw, I do suggest that room be left for
> drainage of water - 1. put a 6" layer of large aggregate in the bottom of the
> hole and that allows condensate, etc to drain out of the vertical tubes and
> into the aggregate 2. also drill a couple of 1/4" holes in each leg about 2"
> above the MOUNDED concrete top (to encourage rain runoff) to allow water to
> drain out of each tube. also, DO get a gallon of roofing cement (tar
> asphalt) and paint the tower section from one foot below the top, MOUNDED
> surface to one foot ABOVE the top surface of this mounded concrete. DO pour
> enough to get the top of the concrete above the level of the ground - use a
> form tube set about 6" down into the ground and extending between 6" and 8"
> above the ground level. iow, get a 1 foot long piece of 3' diam concrete
> form tube used for sign or highway columns. In fact, I have formed a
> relationship with a couple of sign companies and have them do odd jobs like
> drilling the 3' diam hole and I have them do plate welding, winch/crane work,
> buy the cardboard concrete form tube. Remember, mound the top of the pour
> about 3 - 4" above the top edge of that form tube. Do NOT allow any chance
> of dirt to cover the top of that concrete foundation.
>
> some of the above is from about 4 yrs of being a sign inspector, more is
> plain old common sense. btw, about the asphalt, our swamp coolers at home
> never rusted out... most did within 2 yrs. tried pricing one of those
> lately? <G>
>
> good luck
> chas, k5dam
>
>
> Chas
> --
> A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. <B>
> Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing?<B>
> A: Top-posting. <b>
> Q: What is the most annoying thing in e-mail? <B>
>
> .
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