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Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk antenna TOWER - Homebrew

To: "Tower and HF antenna construction topics." <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk antenna TOWER - Homebrew
From: Scott Reed <sreed@nwwnet.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 13:31:34 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
TJI joist are available with a range of web height. Check with you local distributor or TJI for load properties of the different sizes.

On 2/28/2014 9:51 AM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
When mounting a tower on top of your roof you need to consider the down thrust on the tower base and what part of your structure holds up against that thrust. Guy tension increases these down forces. Wind can greatly increase these down forces, even to the point of structural failure of the roof structure because sideways wind forces translate into down forces via the guys.

Of course the tower base should be placed right above good strong roof structure but note that the roof was not designed to hold up against the force of the mast. There are simple modifications/additions that will greatly strengthen the roof in the area of the mast's down force. A thrust member, a good solid timber or metal piece (tube or rectangular metal) can be mounted vertically from the point under the roof where the mast is positioned on downward to something capable of taking the load.

OK, what can "take the load?" a timber or stiff metal reinforcement positioned on and at right angles to the ceiling joists can distribute the down force of the mast over several joists. Ideally you will mount the mast over or very near to a load bearing wall in the building and a timber, tube, or other brace from the top of the wall to the point below the mast will pass the down force to the wall.

Personally, for vertical timbers I prefer at least a good straight grained 4x4 or a metal tube that is stronger than the mast. For a horizontal item to place at right angles across ceiling jopists I prefer what are called "TJI" (trus joist, maker's spelling, not mine) These are very strong and stiff for their weight. Essentially a TJI is a wooden "I" beam. Think of two 2x3 boards with grooves down their lengths attached to say a 12 inch wide length of OSB (Oriented Strand Board, cheap substitute for plywood, NOT PARTICAL BOARD!) These TJI are used as "I" beams and when placed on top of ceiling joists at right angles to the joists the load placed on the TJI is distributed to the underlying joists. The TJI being quite stiff can span several joists. They can be shimmed to account for their flex under load placing thicker and thicker shims as you progress out from the center where the mast down load is.

I am not a structural engineer nor an architect by degree or certification so consider the above as food for thought not detailed instructions for any specific undertaking. Offer void where prohibited by law, your mileage may very, no refund without a valid receipt, no tickee no laundry, I didn't stay in a motel, I didn't play anyone on TV. In fact I was never there and I have witnesses to that...

Patrick NJ5G




.
On 2/28/2014 12:31 AM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
On 2/27/2014 12:50 PM, Wilson wrote:

I hope this is easily translate and hope it is useful.

Wilson has asked the important, basic questions.

These are some additional thoughts and a question:

I have to ask if the 20 meter height above ground will be mounted on the roof, or ground. On a 5 to 7 meter high flat roof we'd be looking at a 13 to 15 meter tower (roughly 40 feet). "Depending" on the roof structure and antenna size, it might be a lot for the roof to support when the wind is strong. Even a 10 to 12sq ft (About 3.6 sq meters) is a lot of leverage when applied to a 15 meter lever. Concrete and heavy timber roofs should be able to handle it.

A 20 meter ground mounted tower might be simpler from a structural approach, but getting it up could be difficult. At present there are still too many unknowns to be able to recommend one approach over another

The tower in the following link is well beyond the capabilities most of us have. http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/skyhook.htm It is 60 meters, self supporting and is entirely home brew, but it was engineered by professional and licensed engineers. It was completely assembled by two hams. Note the one ham working at a 100 or 120 feet (30 to 37 meters) and the gin pole they used. This story was in QST

20 meters (65 feet for those in the US) is not out of the question, but I need to emphasize it can be very dangerous work. I don't know your background or ability for climbing and working at heights, access to safety equipment, or help.

With the steel available on the market and a safety factor for home built it will take the equivalent of 4 sections and would need to be built in the shape of a windmill tower. Triangular, not square.

It would need to be built in place unless you have access to heavy equipment to lift it up and stand it in place.

Using steel angle, which could possibly be purchased with a galvanized coating could be done with little or no welding. Bolting the sections together would require care to make sure the joints are strong enough. Because of the likely wind load it would require much stronger bracing than a typical wind mill tower and a reasonable overlap of vertical sections.

Wood is normally easier to work with and easier to get, but does deteriorate much faster than steel with age. The wood available here is no longer of high quality and is not well cured/dried. 2 X 4s tend to twist, or warp. I lay them out on supports so air can get to all sides. I rotate them (top to bottom)twice a day for the first week and once a day after that in a heated (10 to 15C) shop with a dehumidifier. Higher temperatures may cause them to dry too fast. Out doors in summer They need to be protected from rain. The sections and pieces should be bolted together, rather than nailed although I'm sure opinions will vary on that. Use large washers on the bolts.

I tried clamping new 2 X 4s to a steel frame (without rotating) while they dried, but in less than 4 days they twisted enough to break with enough force to throw pieces a meter long as much as 3 to 5 meters. When it broke, it was loud enough to scare me

73

Roger (K8RI


Hi Vikas,
Others will chime in, but I think 20m freestanding is more than you could likely get built/installed safely.
So please tell us the following:

Do you have a flat roof, or peaked?

Roof material?

What services are available locally, welding, woodwork?

What materials are available locally, steel, aluminum, wood?
Many towers have been built of wood, which is available nearly everywhere.

Do you plan to do the building, or hire it done?

A modest installation will be many times easier than an ambitious one.
With 3-5m, on a rooftop, a three element Yagi or two element quad will help you greatly, with reasonable effort and danger. It's reasonable to use a short tower on the roof and let the mast go through the roof and be rotated by hand, if you have trouble finding a rotor.

Wilson
W4BOH
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