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Re: [TowerTalk] Buring Bury-Flex

To: towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Buring Bury-Flex
From: "Roger (K8RI) on TT" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
Date: Sun, 11 May 2014 17:08:00 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
On 5/11/2014 2:18 PM, Patrick Greenlee wrote:
Grant, PVC S&D (Serer and Drain) pipe is also available in 3 inch. I have both 3 and 4 inch in service as conduit. You do need to be a little more cautious when back filling over S&D as it is more subject to rock damage and the like. In this region both Lowes and Home Depot have the 3 and 4 inch for less than the price of sched 40 PVC water pipe and since I'm not pressuring the conduit I go for the savings. The S&D has some nice sweep L's which I like for ease in pulling cable.

As you will notice in the 5th photo
http://www.rogerhalstead.com/ham_files/cablebox.htm The lines are leveled as the backfill is put back. I used the thin wall drain pipe. At the far end there is a "Y". Rather that an external trap that would fill naturally every time it rained, the "Y" is separated from the rest of the run by a thin bulkhead with a couple of simple 1/8th" holes at the high and low points so the trap can breathe The trap is filled with pea gravel and has a single 1/8th inch drain hole at the base.. BTW the entire back fill is covered with 1" Styrofoam and never freezes. It's protected with 2 to 3 inches of crushed rock.

Were I to do this again, I'd make the trap, at least 3 or 4 feet long, filled with pea gravel and with a small drain hole at the base. It's in the sand back fill for the basement wall which is "relatively" dry, year round. Powder dry in the summer except for brief periods after storms. In the winter, it remains dry below the frost line.

That can, drain, "what ever" needs to easily hold all the water with plenty of room left over. It should not be located as to create an ingress point for water into the conduit.

If you really do need a "dry well", look into the design carefully.

This would be my approach: 1. The dry well truly needs to be dry. It should not have water setting in the botton if at all possible. 3. I'd not use steel or crocks that readily cause condensation. 4. It should extend well below the frost line
5.It should be capable of draining!

These are just ideas as each installation is pretty much unique and has its own requirements. If you know an engineer, try to "bleed" a little specific information. If you don't know one, try to make friends with one. For lack of better materials, depending on size, I'd use a group of appropriately sized thin wall drain pipe. 4, 5 6, inch or what ever, into a plenum. A small heater and fan could be used to exhaust the warm air out into the atmosphere from the plenum

I have several areas (NW corner of the lot) where the only conduit route would be to seal and purge with dry nitrogen. Fortunately I've had no need for waterproof conduit in this ares. I'd go above ground if necessary.

Do not exhaust the warm air into the conduit, unless you have a large heater and big fan, otherwise you will just build up a lot of condensation in the conduit!

73

Roger (K8RI)



73,

Patrick NJ5G




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