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Re: [TowerTalk] Zerk fitting for MA-40

To: TexasRF@aol.com, towertalk@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Zerk fitting for MA-40
From: Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2015 14:22:51 -0500
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Gerald, there are differences and similarities in ATF products. The differences are important when using in automatic transmissions with specific needs. The additive packages are typically for specific applications. The qualities of ATF that lends them to a component of a penetrant are shared among all the types of ATF of which I am aware. Translation: There is no over the counter widely available ATF that would not work OK as a component of the home brew ATF-acetone mix.

As to left handed holes...

Left handed drills when used to drill out a stuck right handed threaded fastener are not for making a hole to use for something else. They drill out the stuck fastener until the drill typically binds and acts as a handle to use to turn the fastener CCW so it can be backed out and removed. Alternatively the stuck fastener may loosen up and be easy to remove. This sometimes happens. Using the LH drill bits in conjunction with a good penetrating oil such as the 50-50 mix has a fairly high success history. Sometimes the smaller size LH bits bind and break off. When this happens drilling the fastener again is nearly impossible as the center of the hole is filled with hardened metal (the broken bit.)

Sometimes the LH bit is sized to drill out the fastener all the way out to about half way through the threads (radially.) Then the hole is drilled oversize and tapped to the larger size.

All this technique is useless if you get too much debris into the bearing and mess it up. Bearings are built to fairly close tolerances and chunks of steel getting where they are not wanted can cause problems.

Patrick    NJ5G



On 4/10/2015 2:04 PM, TexasRF@aol.com wrote:
Patrick, assuming ATF means automatic transmission fluid, a wiki search shows there are more than ten different flavors in use. Wonder which one is recommended? On the subject of left handed drill bits: what would the intended use be? Drilling left handed holes? Use with left handed drill motor? Having survived thus far without needing one I am wondering what I have missed out on. Since easy out tools are readily available and most likely a lot more robust than left handed drill bits seems the actual need is not great. Probably less expensive as well and I see one tool fits several size bolts. Now that it has come to light that drill bits can be used in place of an easy out tool, it seems that there will be no need to buy an easy out tool for reverse threaded bolts; a regular drill bit will work for that purpose.
Yea, it is a slow day here!
73,
Gerald K5GW
In a message dated 4/10/2015 1:41:01 P.M. Central Daylight Time, patrick_g@windstream.net writes:

    An extensive university (I forget which one) engineering department
    study tested penetrating oil products like Rust Buster, WD-40, etc.
    None, including the expensive ones beat a 50-50 mix of ATF and
    Acetone.

    I mixed up some and have been getting good results.  I recommend
    you try
    this mix before you give up on Easy-Outs and their ilk. Left handed
    drill bits work in some instances but be careful with the smaller
    sizes
    as when they break off they are in the way of trying other approaches.

    Good luck to you.

    Patrick   NJ5G

    On 4/10/2015 1:14 PM, Gary Schafer wrote:
    > There are some fittings that just have small rings around them.
    They look
    > like a thread but are parallel rings. They are made to be driven
    into a
    > smooth hole with no threads.
    > If you are turning the wrench and it does not unscrew, this may
    be what you
    > have.
    >
    > If you have to drill to get the old one out try a left hand
    drill bit. Often
    > the left hand rotation of the drill bit loosens the thread and
    unscrews it.
    > I have never had much luck with EZ-outs if the threads are rusted.
    >
    > 73
    > Gary  K4FMX
    >
    >> -----Original Message-----
    >> From: TowerTalk [mailto:towertalk-bounces@contesting.com] On
    Behalf Of
    >> Don W7WLL
    >> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 12:57 PM
    >> To: Towertalk
    >> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Zerk fitting for MA-40
    >>
    >> IMHO, use an EZ-out, inexpensive and work. I've never seen a
    Zerk that
    >> was
    >> not tapped but surely could exist. Mine are tapped. Even if you
    have to
    >> end
    >> up drilling it out you can rethread. Just keep the drill size
    of the EZ-
    >> Out
    >> doesn't work less that the tap size specified for the Zerk
    thread. Be
    >> sure
    >> to THROUGHLY flush out the fitting hole, don't want any chips
    or crud
    >> getting into the bearing. You can't put to much grease in, you
    should
    >> see it
    >> oozing out before stopping the greasing.
    >>
    >> Don W7WLL
    >>
    >> -----Original Message-----
    >> From: Kurt Cathcart. KR2C
    >> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 9:26 AM
    >> To: towertalk@contesting.com
    >> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Zerk fitting for MA-40
    >>
    >> Good information everybody.  And quick too! Thank you.
    >>
    >> One more question.  Removing the remains of the Zeck fitting, would
    >> anybody know if this is tapped or pressed?
    >>
    >> -Kurt
    >> KR2C
    >>
    >>
    >> On 4/10/2015 11:59 AM, Kurt Cathcart. KR2C wrote:
    >>> I have a US Tower MA-40 with the rotator base.  The last time I
    >> greased
    >>> the bearing, the Zerk fitting broke when I was removing the grease
    >> gun.
    >>> Does anybody have an idea of what I should replace it with?  I got
    >>> crickets from US Tower.
    >>>
    >>> -Kurt
    >>> KR2C
    >>>
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