There are metal shops that can build rebar cages for a few bucks and
deliver to your site. The payback on buying a special tool is a number of
cages, so if you're building a single (or two or three or four) rebar
cages, or you live in a remote area without metal working shops, you're
going to spend less money having a shop use their bender and expertise to
build the cage.
Mickey
Mickey Baker, N4MB
Fort Lauderdale, FL
*“Tell me, and I will listen. Show me, and I will understand. Involve me,
and I will learn.” *Teton Lakota, American Indian Saying.
On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 9:54 AM, Andre VanWyk via TowerTalk <
towertalk@contesting.com> wrote:
> I used my hydraulic log splitter to bend all the rebar for my 165ft Rohn
> 55g base and anchor blocks to Rohn spec. I made two "shoes" for each end of
> the splitter to protect the splitter ends. Worked like a charm! Very little
> elbow grease spilled!
> 73
> NJ0F
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:06 AM, Patrick Greenlee <patrick_g@windstream.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > Harbor Freight (Northern Tool too, I think) sells hydraulic pipe benders
> that come with interchangeable "jaws? mandrels?" of different sizes.
> These aren't all that expensive and do a great job. They have a built in
> rollers and a hydraulic jack that you manually pump to get the bending.
> Easy to pump. Goes slow enough that there is no worry about going too far
> too fast, Easy to get the desired radius of curvature. You can single
> handed bend a circle with a 20 ft length of rebar or make a much tighter
> bend if desired. I have had mine for over 20 years.
> >
> > Patrick NJ5G
> >
> >
> >> On 10/20/2015 11:05 PM, Roger (K8RI) on TT wrote:
> >> My opinion:
> >> Typically the rebar only adds strength to the concrete base. IOW, You
> don't need as large a base, or as strong a mix when rebar is used. If you
> were "positive" the base could maintain structural integrity under any
> conditions you wouldn't need rebar.
> >>
> >> Regardless of whether welded or tied, The rebar normally doesn't need a
> rigid connections. The ties only keep the rebar in place during the pour.
> >>
> >> If you don't need precision and are not making sharp bends in big stuff
> you might be able to do the bending with a manual conduit bender. Welding
> just makes building a rugged cage that can stand rough handling easier.
> Just be sure to use rebar made for welding. Welds on the normal stuff are
> quite fragile.
> >>
> >> Bending rod, rerod, pipe, etc...into a circle is usually done with
> three rollers. The rollers (Which usually have a radius cut into them to
> keep the rod centered) are mounted in a triangular shape with the bottom of
> the center one slightly below the tops of the outside rollers (The height
> of this roller is adjustable). To bend much of anything, these things can
> be pretty hefty. The distance between the rollers is surprisingly short.
> Having them close reduces, or eliminates waste.
> >>
> >> There is a bit of a learning curve, but it's neither steep nor long. A
> rough explanation: The center roller is raised so the rod can be inserted
> over the outside rollers and under the center roller. Then the center
> roller is lowered and tension applied. The first pass produces a shallow
> arc. The center roller is lowered for each successive pass which tightens
> the arc eventually into a circle
> >>
> >> I've seen the rollers mounted into the top of a steel bench with a
> movable center wheel. The rollers are powered and a center screw, or
> hydraulic ram powers the movement of the center roller. With those you
> have to be aware of the thd of tht piece coming back, or you could skewer
> yourself.
> >>
> >> 73
> >>
> >> Roger (K8RI
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 10/20/2015 11:29 AM, StellarCAT wrote:
> >>> Rohn says to use 8 #7 rebar (SERIOUSLY! 7/8”!!) ... and then it shows
> ‘#4 circular ties 2 1/2” OC with 2” cover with 24” laps’
> >>>
> >>> huh?
> >>>
> >>> I’ve always just dug a hole – usually around 3 x 3 x 3 ... put the
> tower section in (with temp guys) ... put in a few pieces of 1/2” re bar
> and been done with it .... but now I have to follow the Rohn specifications
> which seem onerous at best (I know, I know – guys that say “follow it to
> the letter”) ... and I’ve no clue what #4 circular tie is. SURELY its not
> #4 rebar BENT in a circle!?
> >>>
> >>> Googling so far hasn’t shown me anything that helps.
> >>>
> >>> Gary
> >>> K9RX
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>>
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> >>
> >
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