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Re: [TowerTalk] Fiberglass Enclosure

To: <dwkanepe@aol.com>, <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Fiberglass Enclosure
From: "Jim Thomson" <jim.thom@telus.net>
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2018 10:54:55 -0700
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
##  all my nema 4 boxes  are fiberglass or polycarbonate.   Before they are 
closed up, I hit them with the hair dryer, and cook the insides.
I also install a fair wack of  silica gel ..aka   desiccant, inside each 
box..like a lot of it.     Silica gel will absorb  up to 40% of its weight in 
moisture , water. 
When they are opened up, like a year later, they are bone dry, including 
everything on the inside.   Another method is to generate some heat
inside the  enclosure, like through a pair of metal finned resistors etc.  The 
2nd resistor is  for redundancy.    We used the above technique when I worked
for the local telco for 34 years.. including  lubing the large diameter  x .25 
thick rubber O rings.   The O rings were replaced every year..along with the 
silica gel..
both on spec.... and  typ in the fall, before the bad wx  sets in. 

##  If installing variable capacitors inside an enclosure,  I used  ceramic  
vac caps.  If any type of relay is to be used,  I use ceramic vac relays.   I 
have had too many issues
in the past when using air variables..and also any type of open frame relay, 
including the types with the lock down plastic covers.   The metal, 
hermetically sealed mech relays
are fine, provided the mating socket connection is good. 

##  another school of thought is to use  weep or drain holes, in which case 
silica gel cant be used, since it will absorb  outside moisture.   Metal 
enclosures are the most likely 
to form condensation on the inside...even with weep holes installed, everything 
inside has this tendency to  corrode.   These days,  if I have to use a metal 
enclosure, it gets sealed
up tight, heat inside, and plenty of silica gel. 

##  Then u still have the issues  where any cables etc, have to go in or out of 
the enclosure.   Access  to any enclosure is yet another issue, esp if an 
enclosure is way out on the boom. 

Jim  VE7RF      




From: dwkanepe@aol.com 
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2018 9:54 AM
To: jim.thom@telus.net ; towertalk@contesting.com 
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Fiberglass Enclosure

Keep in mind that, unless there is zero humidity the day you seal up the 
box...the interior of the box will become a terrarium...experiencing 
evaporation/condensation cycles with fluctuations in temperature. All interior 
components should be protected against corrosion (unless breathers/drains are 
installed).

If using non-metallic polycarbonate boxes, one should avoid using any anaerobic 
thread locking compounds as contact with polycarbonate can lead to stress 
cracks developing.

Don Kane
WB2BEZ


In a message dated 8/14/2018 12:29:25 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
jim.thom@telus.net writes: 

  Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2018 23:05:44 +0000
  From: Wayne Kline <w3ea@hotmail.com>
  To: Chuck Dietz <w5prchuck@gmail.com>, Grant Saviers
  <grants2@pacbell.net>
  Cc: "N2TK, Tony" <tony.kaz@verizon.net>, "towertalk@contesting.com"
  <towertalk@contesting.com>
  Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Fiberglass Enclosure


  ## nema 4 boxes are water proof. You can test that urself with a garden hose.
  I use hoffman boxes with the rubber gasket. I also noticed that on the hammond
  version, the rubber gasket is replaceable. Either way, I would suggest 
applying a thin
  layer of silicone dielectric grease on the rubber gasket, before tightening 
things down. Then the
  rubber gasket will last longer....and 100 % zero water, moisture ingress. 

  Jim VE7RF 
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