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Re: [TowerTalk] Stripping rg142

To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stripping rg142
From: "Jeff DePolo" <jd0@broadsci.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2018 22:55:13 -0500
List-post: <mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
> What's the best way to strip this in preparation of crimp connectors

If you're going to be doing a lot of connectors, the best I have found are
the Greenlee (Paladin) CST-Vario strippers.  They are a bit of a PITA to set
up the first time since they are fully adjustable both in terms of distance
between each strip level as well as depth of each level.  But once you have
them set, there's nothing better or easier for small-diameter cables.

Virtually all crimp connectors for RG400 or RG142B are going to be a
three-level strip/prep.  The distances for each level are going to vary from
connector to connector.  As such, it behooves one to standardize one a
particular manufacturer/model of connector, and set up the strip tool for
that particular model.  Either that, or plan on buying and configuring a
separate tool for each model.

With some practice and/or with the help of a template, you can do OK using a
good utility knife - one that holds the blade solidly with no play.  And of
course, use a new, sharp blade.  Things to keep in mind:

- The first cut should be through the jacket and both shield layers, but not
through the teflon dielectric.  For this first cut, you don't have to be
particularly precise as far as distance from the end of the cable as you can
trim the center conductor later.  The reason for making this cut first is
that it's a whole lot easier and neater to cut the braid while it's still
trapped between the jacket and dielectric.

- The second cut is through the dielectric to strip the center conductor.
If you're using a knife, be very careful not to score the center conductor.
RG142B has a silver-plated copper-clad steel center conductor.  If you knick
it, it will fracture if bent.

- The final cut isn't really a cut, it is scoring the jacket, then flexing
it a bit to get it to separate.  The FEP jacket is pretty stiff, which is a
good thing as it makes scoring and breaking it a fairly easy process as
compared to trying to do the same with a cable with a soft jacket like PVC.
Again, don't go too deep or you'll knick the braid.  If you knick the braid,
not only will it make final assembly of the connector a mess, but it will
result in a loss of pull-out strength when you crimp the ferrule.

The distances between each of those three strip levels, and the length of
the bare center conductor, varies from connector to connector.  The
connector datasheet will show the proper length.

                                                --- Jeff WN3A


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