[Amps] Cutting G-10 Board

[Will Matney]

Mike,

For 1/4" thick board, you will probably need a slightly larger router. Those new zip routers they make for cutting drywall would do it as they have more torque than a Dremel tool. Use about a 1/8" bit at least if not a 1/4" diameter bit. These big sheets can be handled on a set of saw horses, etc if you dont have the bench room. In that case, clamp the straight edge to the material itself then route it. Use a straight cutting bit at fairly high speed like wood and it will slice right through it. This works well for Micarda too.

The Dremel tool with the router base can be used to cut pads and traces on a piece of PC board once you get the hang of it. Just make sure the board doesn't move around under it. For this use a 1/8" wide round nose or V bit, etc. Set the depth about 1/4 to 1/8 the thickness of the PC board using a gage. In other words, for 1/16" board, take about a 0.08" or slightly less depth of cut. Really you just want it deep enough to cleanly cut the copper off. Take your time and follow inked lines on the foil side of the board.

Best,

Will

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 8/29/06 at 2:54 PM m.ford wrote:

>Thanks for the info Will and thanks for asking the question Bob.
>I have a 18 by 12 sheet of 1/8  and another of 1/4 inch G-10 and
>was waiting for some good advice on the thicker stuff that a shear
>wont handle.
>
>Mike  K1ern
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Will Matney" <craxd1 at verizon.net>
>To: "Bob Maser" <bmaser at tampabay.rr.com>; <amps at contesting.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 2:29 PM
>Subject: Re: [Amps] Cutting G-10 Board
>
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I bought a router attachment for my Dremel tool, and use it. I clamp the
>board down over the edge of the bench using a 
>> long straight 1 X 3 board which I use as a straight edge. One C clamp on
>each end to the bench. I put the router 
>> against the board/straight edge and route away. It gives perfectly
>straight lines. Use a square to square it with the 
>> board so the part will stay square. For small pieces, use a miter box
>and a small miter saw. I'm going to buy a small 
>> 12 inch shear for this in the future.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Will
>>
>> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********
>>
>> On 8/29/06 at 2:23 PM Bob Maser wrote:
>>
>>>Does anyone has advice on how to make straight cuts on 1/8" G-10 board
>>>material(actually, it is G-11 but very close to being the same as G-10)?
>>>I
>>>am building a plenum for a MLA-2500 and want straight cuts to allow for
>>>minimum air gaps in the joints.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>
>>>Bob  W6TR
>>>
>>>_______________________________________________