[Amps] chassis maker?

[Carl]

One of my last jobs before retiring had a nice prototyping shop complete 
with a 48" brake with many dies for various compound bends, band saw, 5hp 2 
stage compressor, plasma cutter and Miller TIG setup. When they went belly 
up in 2000 I bought the above plus many smaller items (including a Henrob 
2000 torch) for very little. Couldnt afford the big stuff (-;

When I retired in 2002 I brought the part time rod and custom shop in my 
garage to full time and moved into a real building with employees and took 
all the goodies out of storage from a friends barn. Sold that biz to the 
shop manager 10 years later but still get to use the goodies and have built 
many chassis.

Even the heavy duty larger Hammond aluminum chassis are only 16 gauge so if 
you need support strength either add them underneath or go to steel. Their 
small ones are 18 gauge.
Hammond steel chassis are 18 and 20 gauge.

Steel sheetmetal for a vintage vehicle is 16-21  gauge and the thinner 
gauges can be handled with a homeowners size shear and brake. Heavier gauge 
for aluminum
For amps it is a heck of a lot easier to build clamshell cases with the 
lower half used to mount components as the manufacturers have been doing for 
decades. Use a Hammond or LMB chassis for something small such as just 
mounting a tube(s) on. You can also roll your own small chassis or build 
using 2 sided copper PC board. Then dress all the soldered edges and paint, 
and it looks factory made.

Carl
KM1H

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Roger (K8RI)" <k8ri at rogerhalstead.com>
Cc: <amps at contesting.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Amps] chassis maker?


> On 5/4/2013 12:59 PM, Colin Lamb wrote:
>> "I consider a shear essential unless you are not considering looks. Only
>> a few have the skill to saw and file with a professional look."
>>
>> Although I have a shear, that may not be the perfect solution.  In order 
>> to cut thicker
>  aluminum or steel, you need a 2,000 pound shear, which involves space. 
> And, often they are
> not able to do more than cut a flat edge the full length of the material. 
> If you are going to
> fold it, the shear may not be able to cut all the shapes you need. 
> However, both a table saw
> and a radial arm saw, with a non-ferrous blade can make clean cuts 
> (warning - secure things
> before you cut).  And, if you build edge guides, even a saber saw with a 
> metal cutting blade
> can make clean cuts.
>
>
> Agreed.
>
> The shear has one strong negative when it comes to thicker pieces. The 
> rolled edge.
>
> The table saw can throw an unsecured piece across the shop and stick it 
> far enough into the wall that it can be difficult to pull out. Voice from 
> long in the past.  Basically I don't like table saws, do to a slip with 
> one I have a thumb the Doc tells me will never be the same.
>
>
> I much prefer the milling machine with saw for the thicker pieces. A 
> horizontal/vertical combination mill is ideal but pricey and I've not seen 
> any at regular machine shop brokers. Grizzly has imported ones. I don't 
> know how good/durable they are.
>
> I've seen break/shear combinations that would (were reputed to) cut out 
> corners, for making chassis, but again I think the thickest material they 
> could handle was either 12 or 16ga.
>
> There are also specific punch presses for cutting out these corners 
> ranging from hand units for a standard thickness Aluminum to hydraulic for 
> serious work.  Thing is, I see the newer versatile shops using laser 
> cutters which put a new meaning on the word pricey, but they will cut 
> virtually any metal.  Programed they can do an entire panel in a few 
> minutes.  I think one of the companies that have been mentioned offer that 
> service. They send you the software to lay out the panel, you send the 
> layout back and you have the new panel back in about a week.  I think they 
> will even do powder coating.
>
> Now that would be quite a toy.<:-))
>
> Surprisingly, a plasma torch with a moveable/roller power feed can cut 
> Aluminum or steel with a pretty good edge.  I've cut painted barn metal 
> using a guide without scorching the paint. Course that's thin and you are 
> moving fast.  That and it's not an edge you'd present to a customer.
>
> I've never gotten a good edge from a sabre saw.
>
> 73
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>>
>> 73,  Colin  K7FM
>>
>>
>
>
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