[Amps] chassis maker?
Vic K2VCO
k2vco.vic at gmail.com
Sat May 4 22:40:53 EDT 2013
I am doing it what might be the hard way, but is a learning experience. I inherited some
1/8" aluminum sheet that I am using for chassis plates and inner and outer panels. I can
cut it with a saber saw (I am getting better at this) and clean it up with a file. The
trick is not to go so fast that the blade loads up. I use an orbital sander to create a
clean matte finish on the surface.
I use 16-gauge 6061-T6 sheets from Metal Supermarket for sides and 18 gauge material for
bottom and top plates. I hold the pieces together with 1/2" square aluminum sections and
in some cases 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle. Both of these seem to hold very well when
tapped for 6-32 screws. The square sections make a very strong assembly.
I've also used a 7x7x2 aluminum Bud chassis for the enclosure for a 4Cx1000A socket. Yes,
the material is very thin, and soft, too.
I am making plenty of mistakes along the way, but so far I've overcome them. I don't think
I have enough planning ability to order a commercial assembly -- I admire the guys who can
plan everything in advance and have it all fit, but I am always getting surprised.
On 5/4/2013 5:28 PM, Carl wrote:
> One of my last jobs before retiring had a nice prototyping shop complete with a 48"
> brake with many dies for various compound bends, band saw, 5hp 2 stage compressor,
> plasma cutter and Miller TIG setup. When they went belly up in 2000 I bought the above
> plus many smaller items (including a Henrob 2000 torch) for very little. Couldnt afford
> the big stuff (-;
>
> When I retired in 2002 I brought the part time rod and custom shop in my garage to full
> time and moved into a real building with employees and took all the goodies out of
> storage from a friends barn. Sold that biz to the shop manager 10 years later but still
> get to use the goodies and have built many chassis.
>
> Even the heavy duty larger Hammond aluminum chassis are only 16 gauge so if you need
> support strength either add them underneath or go to steel. Their small ones are 18 gauge.
> Hammond steel chassis are 18 and 20 gauge.
>
> Steel sheetmetal for a vintage vehicle is 16-21 gauge and the thinner gauges can be
> handled with a homeowners size shear and brake. Heavier gauge for aluminum
> For amps it is a heck of a lot easier to build clamshell cases with the lower half used
> to mount components as the manufacturers have been doing for decades. Use a Hammond or
> LMB chassis for something small such as just mounting a tube(s) on. You can also roll
> your own small chassis or build using 2 sided copper PC board. Then dress all the
> soldered edges and paint, and it looks factory made.
>
> Carl
> KM1H
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger (K8RI)" <k8ri at rogerhalstead.com>
> Cc: <amps at contesting.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 8:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Amps] chassis maker?
>
>
>> On 5/4/2013 12:59 PM, Colin Lamb wrote:
>>> "I consider a shear essential unless you are not considering looks. Only
>>> a few have the skill to saw and file with a professional look."
>>>
>>> Although I have a shear, that may not be the perfect solution. In order to cut thicker
>> aluminum or steel, you need a 2,000 pound shear, which involves space. And, often they
>> are
>> not able to do more than cut a flat edge the full length of the material. If you are
>> going to
>> fold it, the shear may not be able to cut all the shapes you need. However, both a
>> table saw
>> and a radial arm saw, with a non-ferrous blade can make clean cuts (warning - secure
>> things
>> before you cut). And, if you build edge guides, even a saber saw with a metal cutting
>> blade
>> can make clean cuts.
>>
>>
>> Agreed.
>>
>> The shear has one strong negative when it comes to thicker pieces. The rolled edge.
>>
>> The table saw can throw an unsecured piece across the shop and stick it far enough into
>> the wall that it can be difficult to pull out. Voice from long in the past. Basically
>> I don't like table saws, do to a slip with one I have a thumb the Doc tells me will
>> never be the same.
>>
>>
>> I much prefer the milling machine with saw for the thicker pieces. A
>> horizontal/vertical combination mill is ideal but pricey and I've not seen any at
>> regular machine shop brokers. Grizzly has imported ones. I don't know how good/durable
>> they are.
>>
>> I've seen break/shear combinations that would (were reputed to) cut out corners, for
>> making chassis, but again I think the thickest material they could handle was either 12
>> or 16ga.
>>
>> There are also specific punch presses for cutting out these corners ranging from hand
>> units for a standard thickness Aluminum to hydraulic for serious work. Thing is, I see
>> the newer versatile shops using laser cutters which put a new meaning on the word
>> pricey, but they will cut virtually any metal. Programed they can do an entire panel
>> in a few minutes. I think one of the companies that have been mentioned offer that
>> service. They send you the software to lay out the panel, you send the layout back and
>> you have the new panel back in about a week. I think they will even do powder coating.
>>
>> Now that would be quite a toy.<:-))
>>
>> Surprisingly, a plasma torch with a moveable/roller power feed can cut Aluminum or
>> steel with a pretty good edge. I've cut painted barn metal using a guide without
>> scorching the paint. Course that's thin and you are moving fast. That and it's not an
>> edge you'd present to a customer.
>>
>> I've never gotten a good edge from a sabre saw.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>>
>>> 73, Colin K7FM
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
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>
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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