PJ1B M/S vs. M/M
KU4J at OPUS.HSV.ISG.MOT.COM
KU4J at OPUS.HSV.ISG.MOT.COM
Wed Jun 15 16:30:56 EDT 1994
I never heard any conclusive results from the thread back in November
about the operators of PJ1B 'skirtin' the 10 mintue rule by using
their own callsigns/PJ to coax multipliers to work PJ1B on other
freqs/bands. Is this now considered an acceptable practice for a
M/S station? Is this grey area? I noticed they were still listed
#1 in the M/S category in the latest CQ magazine. I would like to
know if they are going to be bumped to M/M or if this is now part
of M/S strategy.
73's tim/ku4j
>From jtp1 at gte.com (John Pescatore) Wed Jun 15 21:52:55 1994
From: jtp1 at gte.com (John Pescatore) (John Pescatore)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 16:52:55 -0400
Subject: Slingshot Redux
Message-ID: <9406152049.AA04239 at bunny.gte.com>
For many, many Field Days I have used a Wrist Rocket, although at some
locations my pitching arm has worked just fine. The secret weight: pipe
elbows, or pipe tees. They come in all kinds of sizes, are very cheap, are
easy to tie string to, and don't rust. You can find them anywhere.
CAUTION: They go very far when Wrist Rocketed without any line attached,
and make nice dents in aluminum siding, heads, and police cars. Don't you
try these tricks at home.
John WB2EKK
John Pescatore
GTE Government Systems
Rockville, MD
jtp1 at gte.com
>From McCarty, DK 'Dav" <DKMC at chevron.com Wed Jun 15 22:52:28 1994
From: McCarty, DK 'Dav" <DKMC at chevron.com (McCarty, DK 'Dav)
Date: 15 Jun 94 14:52:28 PDT
Subject: More slingshot stuff
Message-ID: <199406152152.AA19072 at portal.chevron.com>
From: McCarty, DK 'David'
To: OPEN ADDRESSING SERVI-OPENADDR
Subject: RE: More slingshot stuff
Date: 1994-06-15 16:42
Priority:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>I find the most important thing in the whole slingshot/fishing line/in the
>tree operation is the "smoothness" of the transition between the
>monofilament line and the heavier string.
>
>I have found that any sort of knot arrangement usually results in a large
>enough "bump" to snag in the branches.
>
>I usually just wrap electrical tape over the "knot", just enough so that
the
>whole joint is smooth.
An excellent idea.
>This advice is even more important if you do a second trasition from light
>"rope" to heavier rope before attaching the antenna. The knotting becomes
>even larger. In this case you might even want to consider no knot at all.
>Just overlap the two ends of the rope by about 15 inches and tape the two
>pieces together tightly with electrical tape. This results in a relatively
>smooth transition between the two pieces. I have never had the two pieces
>come apart, because there is never really a reason to really yank on the
rope
>since it doesn't get snagged.
The drag/yank need all depends on the type of tree. I've had bad luck with
pine trees in which the small rope gets under a segment of bark and the tape
just gets peeled off as the junction comes over that spot. Murphy says that
the more perfect the placement of the line, the higher the potential for
drag and other problems.
I use a simple knot used by sailors for pulling a large cable with a smaller
line, and tape over it as above. The fear of losing a *perfect* throw is
too great for me to do the no-knot method.
If you don't have a slingshot and have a good arm you can use a baseball.
I run a large sewing needle under the stitches and put in a permanent loop
of monofilament. Then I use a double loop of 24 gauge copper wire as the
weak link between the long line and the ball. That way it takes less pull
to break the connection and you are sure it breaks right at the ball (so you
get the ball back).
To warm up (critical to avoid injury) and get the distance, I use a bucket
full of old tennis balls. Someday soon I'll be warming up with the
harmonic, I suppose. Then in a few years, I'll get her boyfriend to do it
(the local high school just won the state baseball championship...)
As I recall, WA2SRQ used to be REAL good at this...
73,
Dave
David K. McCarty, K5GN
dkmc at chevron.com
>From W. M Wood - The Signal Group <mikewood at mercury.interpath.net> Wed Jun 15 22:56:39 1994
From: W. M Wood - The Signal Group <mikewood at mercury.interpath.net> (W. M Wood - The Signal Group <mikewood at mercury.interpath.net>)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 17:56:39 -0400
Subject: FR5DX
Message-ID: <9406152156.AA14904 at mercury.interpath.net>
As to the question of why FR5DX operates in the contests to give out
all those points but almost never QSLs .......Consider the following:
Easy Money scheme Number 1 -
1) Install a decent station with a good antenna system on all bands.
**** Make sure you operate from a semi-rare QTH so you create
a pileup whenever you operate. ******
2) Operate often. Operate contest style almost always. Operate in
contests whenever possible.
3) Ignore almost all QSLs received at first. Then answer a few that
have at least 2 US Dollars enclosed. Pocket the rest of the IRC
and Dollars.
4) Operate even more often. Operate in all the contests. Try for at
leat 2000 QSOs on contest weekends. If only 10 per cent of the QSOs
yield a QSL in your mail box with 2 dollars or more that means
200 x $2 = $400 for the weekend on the radio. Goof off the rest of
the week. Some of the more desperate and uninformed QSLers will
try several times upping the enclosed funds with each attempt.
Income from these QSLs are called 'residuals'. Be sure to
occasionally QSL a few of these residuals.
5) This plan will work without a hitch for a year or more after
instigation. Eventually there will be people who QSO you again
and are brave enough to ask you why you haven't the last 4
registered letters with return receipts that they sent you.
Immediately reply that you don't recall having received such
registered letters; perhaps they were delivered to the wrong
address. Promise to investigate and send him a card this week.
Try to sound concerned and as sincere as possible. Reiterate
that you QSL 100% to all cards received with proper return
postage funds. Emphasize that '2 greenstamps' are the best
to send because the local post office doesn't really honor
IRCs and it is very difficult for you to deal with IRCs. This
will maximize your income.
6) Occasionally answer some QSLs direct. When you QSL direct, put
QSLs for other stations in the same envelope. US hams especially
will fall for this trick because they are all filthy rich and
for just a dollar or two can send cards to these other stations
. He will think it was just an inadvertant error on your part,
but he knows how hard it was to get your QSL and would feel
really guilty if he didn't forward a QSL from you.
7) Also occasionally send some cards by the bureau. The whole
idea is to send out just enough cards to rove that you DO
QSL. How can anyone deny that you don't ? Whenever there
is a discussion about your not QSLing , at least one DXer
should be able to pipe up and say 'Well , he must QSL. I
sent him a single QSL with 2 IRCs and got my card back in
about 6 months'. KEEP THEM GUESSING! The percentage of
QSL income spent to 'SEED' the operation of this plan for
maximum life and maximum income per QSO hour must be determined
empirically. MasterCraftsmen have been known to perpetuate
the plan for decades.
Don't forget ...... Contest weekends are the best times to
work this plan because QSOs last only a few seconds and
you can make hundreds of QSOs per hour if propogation is good
because the 'weak stations' can often get through. This will
be there only QSO ever with your coutry and they will spend
a lot of time and money to get your QSL,
Advanced versions of this plan have many enhancements such as
allowing guest ops at your station during contest (insist that
he announce via callbook as the QSL route during his operation).
Shcemes # 2,3 and four involve occasional trips to nearby islands
that count as different DXCC countries, etc.
************************************************************
Presented as a public service to the QSL-impaired.
Mike Wood Internet: mikewood at mercury.interpath.net
The Signal Group Amateur Radio: NT4O
P.O. Box 1979 ***Avoid company disclaimers by owning the company ***
Wake Forest, NC 27588
Phone: 919-556-8477 Fax: 919-556-0115
>From GOOSE WD8LLD <GOOSTER at delphi.com> Wed Jun 15 23:19:28 1994
From: GOOSE WD8LLD <GOOSTER at delphi.com> (GOOSE WD8LLD)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 1994 18:19:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: FD 94
Message-ID: <01HDKWV5W72Q8WZQE7 at delphi.com>
HI
>From DFREY" <HARRIS.DFREY at IC1D.HARRIS.COM Wed Jun 15 22:05:16 1994
From: DFREY" <HARRIS.DFREY at IC1D.HARRIS.COM (DFREY)
Date: 15 Jun 1994 16:05:16 EST
Subject: wrist rockets or bow & arrows.
Message-ID: <QCY2.DFREY.4788.1994 0615 16 0516 05>
---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: DFREY at QCY2
Date: 6/15/94 3:40PM
To: address at HARRIS
Subject: wrist rockets or bow & arrows.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My son takes my wrist rocket and usually returns it in
unserviceable condition. A 1/2" hex bolt spray painted
RadHaz yellow works great as a missile, though not as
aerodynamic as a nice cast egg-round sinker.
Plain spools of line are too much bother. A closed face spin
casting reel from K-Mart with 8 or 10 lb test monofilament
line works nicely for most work. Don't use the line for more
than one season, it takes a set and gets nicks. The reel is
hose clamped to a 3' piece of broom handle sharpened at one
end to stick into the ground in front of the archer/slinger.
I prefer a 35 lb fiberglass bow. It is generally more
accurate. The arrow is heavier than the sinker and will more
easily make it to the ground on the other side of the tree.
The fiberglass arrows made for bow fishing work great - the
right weight, very durable rubber feathers, bright
florescent orange, and come without a point. A 1" piece of
automotive hose over the end of the arrow will prevent
splintering the fiberglas. I have been using the same arrow
for over 15 years. A 1/16" hole drilled through the arrow
just before the nock helps attach the monofilament line. Tie
a 3" diameter overhand loop in the end of the line, flatten
the loop and poke it through the hole. Open the loop and
hook it over the end of the arrow/sinker. This easy
attachment eliminates a lot of knot tying! If your shot goes
awry, let the missile come to the ground, remove it from the
line, and rewind only the line.
The two step approach using nylon mason's twine to pull the
permanent rope into place is best. Try not to go totally
over the tree but rather after going over the target branch
crotch or limb, slow the payout of the line to cause the
arrow/sinker to come down beside the trunk. This will
usually result in a string path with the least amount of
branch friction on the line.
Use a 3/16 x 2" lag eye screwed into the tree 7 ft up to
secure your line and keep it away from curious and/or
malicious eyes - especially if the tree is not your own.
Not usually verbose, I'm on vacation this week.
Dick, k4xu dfrey at harris.com
>From K9VV - Fred Kleber <0006636049 at mcimail.com> Wed Jun 15 22:03:00 1994
From: K9VV - Fred Kleber <0006636049 at mcimail.com> (K9VV - Fred Kleber)
Date: Wed, 15 Jun 94 16:03 EST
Subject: Thanks Expert "Slingers"
Message-ID: <85940615210358/0006636049PK4EM at mcimail.com>
Wasn't aware there were so many experienced souls in the fine art of
"slinging". Have located appropriate weapons at several department stores
and will be aiming at the sky shortly. The Zebco reels look like a good
clip to mount to my "weapon". I should be string wires in the heavens
shortly and radiating all of the mosquitos and lightning bugs shortly...
Thanks to everyone for the valuable input!
Fred Fubar, K9VV
k9vv at mcimail.com
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