[CQ-Contest] Sealing coax and connectors

Jukka Klemola jpklemola at gmail.com
Thu Dec 8 14:14:32 EST 2016

I use matt black car spray paint.
Two layers.
So much it drips.
Then Tectyl 190, grey or Dinitrol 447 grey or equivalent.
Maybe two layers. So much it drips.
Then two-three layers matt black car paint. Enough so it drips.

Those chemicals protect your car from any water ingress.
I have found out they protect the antennas pretty much as well.

Happy user since 1993 or so.

I got my license in 1982 and was wondering how to protect.
My earlier material was something that is called 'electrician's putty' or
something along that thought.
It did not perform well in sunshine for long periods of time.

Any tape will accept water in and will never let it leave the electrical

Jukka OH6LI

2016-12-08 19:20 GMT+02:00 Drew Vonada-Smith <drew at whisperingwoods.org>:

> Charly is right, PVC tape alone is no good at all.
> After trying many things, and hating coax seal and liquid goops, my gold
> standard has been to wrap once with self amalgamating tape (Scotch 2242 or
> 3M 215 Temflex, available at home stores)  and follow this with a layer of
> Scotch 33+.  The 33+ is required to achieve UV resistance.  This
> combination cuts apart cleanly if needed for maintenance, and joints
> examined 6+ years later look dry and brand new with zero residue.  Highly
> recommended.
> 73,
> Drew K3PA
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2016 12:02:53 +0700
> From: Charles Harpole <hs0zcw at gmail.com>
> To: CQ-Contest Reflector <cq-contest at contesting.com>
> Subject: [CQ-Contest] sealing contest feedlines
> Message-ID:
> <CAJocjyiiwxhbBOqbjeBkT7uOaNt=puo4DeB4yJNe_6ZpsaNd9Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> Planning and putting new feedlines for my contest antennas, I researched
> joint sealing techniques.
> 1.  Wraps of black electrical tape, even Scotch 33+ for example, is
> inadequate.  I have cut mine open yrs later, many wraps, and there it is
> damp or even wet inside.  Oh, also do not, for any use, PULL that tape to
> break it... that creates a stretch which will later come loose and wave
> like a little flag in the wind.
> 2.  One good method...  wrap the joint (coupling coax cables together, for
> example) with one turn of good electrical tape, cover that and the whole
> joint with CoaxSeal.  Removal is made easier with the one wrap of
> electrical tape.   Excellent seal, examined years later.
> However, pulling CoaxSeal joints over other cables or whatever can easily
> dislodge the CoaxSeal.  Definitely, do not cover the CoaxSeal with wraps of
> electrical tape because as you pull that tape, it can easily dislodge the
> CoaxSeal.... better to top CoaxSeal with heat shrink tubing that hopefully
> shrinks equally and presses equally on the underlying CoaxSeal.
> 3.  Use a good quality heat shrink wrap that has goo or glue inside which
> also activates semi-liquid.  The goo inside dries and really seals while
> the heat shrink tube pulls tight over that.
> For fun, investigate the many products made to water-tight seal cable
> joints.  3M has many including Scotch 33+ but also caulking compounds,
> etc.  Silicone, like that sold to seal around automobile windshields, is
> not good if put in as one large blob... in that case, I witnessed, the
> liquefying plasticizer chemical in this product will ooze out UNDER the
> seal, leaving the joint immersed in liquid later.  Silicone can be applied
> in thin layers, each drying before another is put on top, but there are
> better ways to seal.
> Water will get into most things, of course.  73, Charly
> --
> Charly, HS0ZCW
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