[RFI] w7ekb & ground rods

[K1FZ-Bruce]

     A lot depends upon location. Multiple Short 3 foot rods here in 
Maine, would not be effective some years. The ground in winter can 
freeze down to 4 feet.      Frozen earth  is close to an insulator. 
   
  DX is better on 160  in Winter, but driving new longer ground rods 
is not easy then. 
   
  73
  Bruce-k1fz
   
  www.qsl.net/k1fz/bogantennanotes/index.html
   
   

On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 19:59:03 -0600, Jim Miller 
<JimMiller at STL-OnLine.Net> wrote:
Not to stir the conclusion here but,
  >
  > More grounds would likely be more effective than larger ones because each
  > has an entirely new area of ground to dissipate the energy providing they
  > are properly spaced and connected. 
  >
  > Just thinking, I wouldn't want to be holding the other end of a steel rod
  > during a lightning strike any more than I would a copper clad one. 
  >
  > 73, Jim KG0KP
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: RFI [mailto:rfi-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of David Cole
  > Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2015 3:16 PM
  > To: rfi at contesting.com
  > Subject: Re: [RFI] w7ekb & ground rods
  >
  > Would not a 1 inch copper pipe driven into the ground have more conductive
  > area? I have a grounding project coming up this summer, and am looking
  > forward to the rest of this discussion. 
  > --
  > Thanks and 73's,
  > For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
  > www.nk7z.net
  > for MixW support see;
  > http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
  > for Dopplergram information see:
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  > for MM-SSTV see:
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  >
  >
  > On Sun, 2015-01-18 at 13:28 -0500, K1FZ-Bruce wrote:
  > > The water idea is good on the near ground rod, but not so easy on
  > > the far end of a very long Beverage antenna. 
  > >
  > > Earlier in the discussion, (note lower in this posting) it was noted
  > > that much of the copper on a platted rod was pitted, and eroded
  > > away. Steel itself is a poor conductor. 
  > >
  > > The 3/4 inch thick wall copper pipe, in many cases, gives enough
  > > mechanical strength, but more importantly, has more conductive surface
  > > area. 
  > >
  > > 73
  > > Bruce-k1fz
  > >
  > > www.qsl.net/k1fz/beveragenotes.html
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > On Sun, 18 Jan 2015 12:28:58 -0500, "Roger (K8RI)"
  > > <k8ri at rogerhalstead.com> wrote:
  > > It's easier ti hook a hose to the other end and use it like a water
  > > > drill. No beating, no deforming and it goes in easily and quickly. 
  > > > Stony soil? Then copper pipe can not be driven either. Copper plated
  > > > steel is more rugged and much cheaper. 
  > > >
  > > > 73
  > > >
  > > > Roger (K8RI)
  > > >
  > > >
  > > >
  > > > On 1/18/2015 11:20 AM, K1FZ-Bruce wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > I use thick wall 3/4 inch copper pipe from local hardware stores. 
  > > > > Beating the ground end of a segment into a point with a hammer,
  > makes
  > > > > the insertion into the ground easier. It can skid around smaller
  > rocks
  > > > > better. 
  > > > > 73
  > > > > Bruce-k1fz. www.qsl.net/k1fz/beveragenotes.html
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > On Fri, 16 Jan 2015 16:20:28 -0600, dalej <dj2001x at comcast.net>
  > wrote:
  > > > > The copper coated rods eventually will deteriorate, I've found too. 
  > > > > After pulling them out I've found them speckled where the copper has
  > > > > eroded away and the base material shown. I like the solid copper
  > > > > tubing as ground rods better, but they are not that easy to embed. 
  > Use
  > > > > water to get them in the ground. >
  > > > > > Dale, k9vuj
  > > > > >
  > >
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