Topband: Soldering in the wild!

[Charles Moizeau]

Herb's suggestion is worthy, but needs a qualification as to the kind of tape to use.

Over time the adhesive layer of just about all tape will separate from the tape itself.  This will happen when installed in the field or even if left for a couple of years or more on an indoor shelf.  The result is a gunky mess on the presumed object of preserved value.

The only tape I use for a variety of antenna projects is 3-M (yes, brand specific) blue painters tape, widely available.

The stick-em never leaves-em the tape-em!

All outdoor soldering here is done with lead-free solder, and only 96 pct SN, 4 pct AG is used, but that's another story.

Such soldered joints, and all mechanically contrived connectors, are first covered with the specified 3-M tape and then any kind of goop may be lathered over the junction.  Any later surgical intervention is swiftly made with the point of a sharp knife blade.

This 3-M tape has almost no tensile strength at all.  But interestingly its outer surface has amazing longevity in an outdoor environment.  I use a few tight turns around my various antenna rope halyards to mark the tie-off points on their ground level attachment points.  Loosened in advance of a storm, it's a great help for me to know later where to put things back together.  

After a couple of years, the bright blue color of the tape will have faded but the tape still remains solidly in place, albeit a bit more brittle.

Gud schtuff es vy recommended.

73,

Charles, W2SH 
   





> Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 19:21:15 -0400
> From: herbs at vitelcom.net
> To: topband at contesting.com
> Subject: Re: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
> 
> 
> By putting a small layer of tape on the connection first, then the 
> Butyl, and the a more substantial layer of tape, it is much easier to 
> inspect the connection should this be required later down the road.  
> Butyl on coax or wire connections is a real bear to remove beause it 
> sticks to everything and adheres to everything as it is supposed to.
> 
> 
> Herb, KV4FZ
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 8/4/2012 7:11 PM, Bill Wichers wrote:
> > Weller's butane soldering iron works really well. It's not a particularly cheap unit but it should last you a long time (the butane is refillable).
> >
> > For weatherproofing, I use butyl rubber splicing "tape" (it doesn't have adhesive). Stretch it about 30-50 percent while applying it as a spiral over the exposed solder area and it will stick to itself and make a good seal. You then need to cover it with a layer of electrical tape to keep it in place over time. Splices made this way can last a long time. I suspect you could use coax-seal in place of the butyl tape although it will be messier to work with.
> >
> > I got some of the new(ish) silicone splicing tape at dayton this year to try for outdoor splices. It seems somewhat similar to the butyl tape in terms of how it needs to be applied, but the manufacturer claims it is a one-step deal (no outer layer of electrical tape needed). I haven't tried it yet myself but it might be worth a look if you want to give it a shot.
> >
> > -Bill
> >
> > [Sent using Blackberry Messaging]
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: topband-bounces at contesting.com <topband-bounces at contesting.com>
> > To: topband <topband at contesting.com>
> > Sent: Sat Aug 04 13:22:42 2012
> > Subject: Topband: Soldering in the wild!
> >
> > After suffering through our infamous "derecho" here in Virginia, I find
> > that I've got a* lot* of repair work to do on my beverages.  Most of the
> > breaks are in 450 ohm window line, located in remote areas and will require
> > soldering.  My "non-AC electric" soldering equipment seems to have been
> > lost in the last move and I need to outfit myself with a "wireless"
> > soldering device!  I would be interested in what you use and if you are
> > satisfied with the results.  Thanks.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> 
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