Topband: Silver solder

[JC]

Hi Jorge

The most common problem of Passive Inter Modulation (PIM) that can flood
your radio with BC harmonica is Aluminum Oxide. The dielectric on that white
powder between aluminum and most every others metal became a diode with
moisture and a capacitor when dr. It can protected with all kind of
process, however tall of them last no longer than one year. With RF current
on 160m the joint with rectify and generating all kind of noise.

Electro voltage due different materials is an irreversible process. If you
want to have your ground plane for several years, do yourself a favor and
use  brass split bolt and cooper, you can find split bold that can be
buried.  High temperature also change the tempera of cooper and with all the
different metals you are set up to failure, it just a matter of time to
happen.

Regards
JC
N4IS

-----Original Message-----
From: Topband [mailto:topband-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of Jorge
Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2015 9:28 AM
To: Topband at contesting.com
Subject: Re: Topband: Silver solder

Thanks all for the help

Will be looking for a lead free solder to solder terminals to the radial
wires

According to use 3.5 mm aluminum wire, what do you think? Is a good option
or is better to use copper stranded cable?

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

-----Mensaje original-----
De: Topband [mailto:topband-bounces at contesting.com] En nombre de Gary Smith
Enviado el: miércoles, 31 de diciembre de 2014 02:49 a.m.
Para: Topband at contesting.com
Asunto: Re: Topband: Silver solder

I 2nd Merv's experience. My on the ground radials, on an oceanside salt
marsh, have held up as new for 4 years and I used the lead free plumbing
solder. The only issue is that solder requires a bit more heat then the
leaded solder. 

That's all I use outdoors any more.

734 & HNY,

Gary
KA1J

> Here in salt air regular solder turns to white powder pretty fast, I 
> have been also using lead free solder,  I got a roll of plumbers 
> solder and a jar of resin flux.  works very well on #10 radials and
> 4 inch wide copper strap etc.   Have left several joints exposed
> and there is no corrosion after 4 years.
> Works great so far.
> 73 Merv K9FD/KH6
> 
> > 2% is about what the lead-free electronic solders are (they are a
tin/silver/copper alloy and are mostly tin). Don't bother with the 30%. My
mechanical contractor uses this stuff to fix things he can't reach well
enough to braze. It's not generally used for anything normal.
> >
> > Coincidentally I was just out soldering more radials last night. I 
> > use
18 gauge solid copper radial wire and a 1/2" copper pipe ring to tie them
together. My original 29 radials were all soldered with lead-free electronic
solder and they are all fine after 2-3 years. I didn't do anything to try to
protect the soldered connections -- everything is fully exposed and lying on
the ground.
> >
> > I added 31 more radials. I soldered some the same way, but I'm 
> > trying
regular lead-free plumbing solder on the others. I am finding the plumbing
flux to work better than the rosin-core solder (it wets the joints more
evenly). I'm not sure what the exact alloy is for the plumbing solder.
> >
> > If you use the solder bars remember that you'll need separate flux 
> > and
brushes to apply it. I like the water soluble flux -- it cleans up way
easier.
> >
> > -Bill KB8WYP
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On Dec 30, 2014, at 7:28 PM, Jorge Diez CX6VM 
> >> <cx6vm.jorge at gmail.com>
wrote:
> >>
> >> Hello
> >>
> >> I read about using silver to solder wire radials to terminals
> >>
> >> This week I decided to ask sellers about silver solder and they 
> >> offered me a 2% and 30% silver bars
> >>
> >> What we need for our use? Will be ok to use 2%? The difference in 
> >> price
is extremely high!
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Jorge
> >> CX6VM/CW5W
> >>
> >> Enviado desde mi iPhone
> >> _________________
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> > _________________
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> >
> 
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