[TowerTalk] Stuck Rotor FAQ Summary [LONG]
Fred Hopengarten
k1vr@juno.com
Wed, 12 Apr 2000 11:17:25 -0400
On Tue, 11 Apr 2000 21:52:51 -0700 Jonathan Kaplan <jonk@jskent.com>
writes:
>
> Well, the tower gremlins have struck again. This time I
> can't
> get my HamIV rotator to turn the antenna. The brake light on the
> Pro-
> Search Control box goes on and the brake solenoid reacts to
> instructions,
> but I can't get the antenna (TH7DX) to rotate. I have been told the
> brake is wedged into the gears and won't release. I've tried
> resetting,
> unplugging the control box and plugging in again, and rocking the
> rotor back and forth using the Left and Right pan buttons
> alternately.
> No Luck. Other than climbing up the tower with a hammer and beating
> on it, are there any other ideas to get this thing unstuck?
K1VR: See HyGain Rotator FAQ
Fred Hopengarten K1VR
hopengarten@post.harvard.edu
Six Willarch Road * Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
781/259-0088 *eFax 419/858-2421
FAQ: HyGain Telex Rotator Repair
Summary by Fred Hopengarten K1VR
>From The YCCC Scuttlebutt (sometime in the 1980's)
By Bill Myers K1GQ
Unjamming Tailtwisters
Has your Tailtwister ever refused to turn the antenna?
If so, you are in good company. Based on my experience with three
different rotators, and that of others as well, I've concluded that
sometimes the solenoid is unable to retract the brake wedge. Usually if
I flip the motor switch one way or the other, the wedge breaks free. The
factory confirms that the Tailtwister brake wedge is shaped differently
for more strength and can "jam" when preloaded. Turning the motor
relieves the preload.
This may not work if the rotator is at one of the limits, because the
switches inside the rotator prevent turning further into the limit.
Don't climb the tower yet. You can bypass the switches by jumpering
terminals at the back of the control box - 5 to 8 for clockwise and 4 to
6 for counterclockwise.
From: "DavidC" <davidc@bit-net.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotator repair sites
CATS is the Rotor Doctor, online now:
http://www.rotordoc.com/
[K7LXC: 800-3ROTORS]
Also, check out Norm's Rotor Service
http://www.tiac.net/users/shiacawn/rotors/
[K7LXC: 301-874-5885.]
and Telex-Hygain (they are said to do excellent work at very
reasonable prices)
http://www.hy-gain.com/
DavidC AA1FA
From: Chuck Sudds <csudds@probe.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 16:31:34 -0500
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Looking for Ham IV rotor repair company
At 12:03 PM 8/27/98 EDT, you wrote:
>
>Try Hy-Gain. Last time it was $109 plus shipping for a complete overhaul
of
>the rotor. -- Bruce AA4Z
Unfortunately, HyGain/Telex has increased these prices. Please see the
attached message that I received back in the middle of may from them on
just this subject.
*************************************************************************
No we don't have exchange program. We can repair your rotor for
$135.00 includes all parts and labor and new hardware.
Linda
-- Forwarded by Linda Dawson/Lincoln/Telex on 05/18/98 10:00 AM --
Chuck Sudds K0TVD
Missouri Valley, Iowa USA
http://www.probe.net/~csudds/ or
http://www.probe.net/~beakers/
Note by K1VR: I've kept the above information on 1998 pricing from
HyGain/Telex just for the purpose of calibrating you on repair costs.
The product line has been sold to MFJ.
From: "Tom Vavra" <wb8zrl@inav.net>
Date: Tue, 20 May 1997 12:59:19 +0000
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Ham-II control box meter bulb
> Charlie Ocker wrote:
> > Looking for a replacement meter bulb for my Ham-II control box.
Looks like a #47, but not sure. -- Charlie N9CO ocker@chasind.com
The bulb is a #1819, a 28V lamp. Radio Shack carries them. -- Tom
WB8ZRL
From: "Lonnie (NT6B)" <nt6b-vk7lm@dreamsoft.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:37:53 -0800
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] T2X Control box hwlp
The TX2 control box uses a 28 volt, .04 mil bulb, part number 272-1119A,
and on the package #1819 is most visable from your favorite place and
mine
(Grin)...RS! -- Lonnie (NT6B)
At 07:56 PM 2/19/00 -0500, thompson@mindspring.com wrote:
>I have a T2X control box with a burned out pilot bulb. The bulb in
there
>was a radio shack
>equivalent with lower current. However the manual shows the bulb by
only
>lists the part number. Can someone ID the bulb # or even the
volts/current?
> dave K4JRB
From: "Jim" <jdc@ieway.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 17:42:12 -0800
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] T2X Control box hwlp
I use a 757 lamp in mine.... (28 volt) The manual calls for a 28 volt
lamp......Have had some in there for 5 years....haven't lost one yet.....
-- Jim W7RY
From: N0OEL@aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 09:50:53 EST
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] T2X Control box hwlp
The bulb that is advised for all HyGain rotor control boxes is a #1819.
They are not available at all electronic suppliers but if you call around
like I did you will find them. The Radio Shack bulb didn't work for me
either. By a box of them as I finally did (10 in a box) and you will be
set for life! The #1819 is not a unusual bulb but not as common as
some. - Mike K0BUD Minneapolis
From: Leeson <leeson@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:01:22 -0800
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotator problem solved
You need a non-polarized cap to handle ac without
deteriorating (the juice will evaporate on the reverse cycle in a
polarized standard electrolytic). However, there's an easy fix:
Use two back-to-back electrolytics in the 100-150 microfarad range,
each with a diode across it so it won't experience back voltage.
Connect the negative sides of the electrolytics together, and connect
the diodes so that the "bar" is at the positive end of each cap (I
always have to think about which way it goes, but you want no current
to flow through the diode when the voltage at the positive end of the
cap is positive).
Also, motor caps are special nonpolarized units, but you can get them
at a motor supply outfit for a lot less. They gradually wear out as
the juice inside dries up, so they are a standard replacement item. --
Dave, W6NL
From: k6ll@juno.com (David O. Hachadorian)
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 12:01:05 EST
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotator problem solved
On Mon, 3 Nov 1997 15:42:58 +200 "Chris R. Burger"
<CRB@knersus.nanoteq.co.za> writes:
>HAM IV ROTATOR PROBLEM SOLVED
>Only question remaining: must I really buy the 'proper' cap ? I used
>an
>old 100uF 100V electrolytic cap from my junk box and it seems to work
>fine. The 'proper' cap is approximately $ 15 from the local HyGain
>supplier. Can the electrolytic damage the motor ?
Electrolytics have a low breakdown voltage in the reverse
direction. There is a way to use two electrolytics
back-to-back, with shunting diodes, but you
would be better off buying a capacitor designed for AC use. In the
states, one can go to any motor shop and get a 120V AC capacitor for
about $4, but it will be physically larger than HyGain's and will
have to be wired in. The capacitance value is not critical. Stay with
Hy-Gain's value, or the next larger size available. I remember doing
the phase shift calculations about 20 years ago to make that
determination, but remember only the general conclusion, not the
hard numbers of what values work.
-- Dave Hachadorian, K6LL@juno.com Yuma, AZ
From: "Chris R. Burger" <CRB@knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:17:13 +200
Subject: Re: HAM-4 ROTOR TROUBLESHOOTING ADVICE
> to figure out how you can get away with back-to-back electrolytics?
----|<|-------|>|----
| | |
----------||--------||----------
I've used this combination for years--seems to work OK.
-- Chris R. Burger ZS6EZ
From: Peter Chadwick <Peter.Chadwick@gpsemi.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 15:57:46 +0100
Subject: TopBand: Rotor Boxes
[K1VR: The question had to do with interference to a rotator on a tower
loaded on 160.]
>What you may need to do is add small by-pass caps at each rotor
>terminal directly to the rotor chassis, and maybe even bypass the
>line cord to the chassis (if they didn't do that).
>Be sure to use the proper style of capacitor if you bypass the line.
>.01's should do the trick, especially in combination with the beads.
>Just the capacitors alone worked with my rotors. The Create is pretty
>RF sensitive compared to a Tailtwister and such.
I made the mistake of using 0.1microfarad 50v dc ceramic disc caps for
bypassing the T2X. Damn things caught fire - literally - with 28 volts
of ac - only 40 volts peak, and they're about 39Kohm reactance at 50Hz.
Then when the volts were off them, they measured open circuit on the
multimeter! Not easy to find..............
Better than ferrite beads I found was a small (1inch diameter) toroid
from an old pot core with all the wires to the rotor wound on it for
about 6 turns, but you need the bypass caps as well. -- Peter G3RZP
From: "Gary A. Nieborsky PE" <k7fr@televar.com>
Date: 29 Jan 1998
Subject: RF problem w/rotor control box
I had the same problem. Putting 0.01 disk ceramic caps to
ground are your best defense. I put them at the tower box (base of tower
with a 1/2" copper bar bonded to my ground system) and also at the rotor
box. Cured all those problems. -- Gary K7FR
----------
> From: Van Sias <wa7fab@cdsnet.net>
> Date: January 29, 1998
> Anyone help me eliminate the rf that causes the rotor
control box to exhibit rf problems, i.e. meter light flashing and meter
needle fluxuating. I am using a Tailtwister with stock control
box. Also, have installed the small beads at the rotor itself on the
tower. Would appreciate info from only people that have had the problem
and cured it. I am not interested in the theories or what you THINK
might help. Run 1.5 KW into three element tri band quad. Thanks in
advance. K7VS, Van.
From: "Doherty, Robert" <robert.doherty@FMR.Com>
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 15:29:00 -0400
Subject: [YCCC] Ham4 direction display
We had similar problems with our Tailtwister....pointed to EU most
of the time....if rotated westerly or easterly the meter would jump
around ...
go to zero.....took it down 3 times and cleaned the feedback pot...but in
6 months the meter would become erratic....finally found out what was
doing it....running the KW with the beam pointed in one direction for a
long period would make small carbon spots on the feedback pot...you could
not see them, the high RF was being picked up on the control wire going
to the rotor and making a small arc between the wiper and the pot....
this a common problem with running high power and a long control
line....we installed ferrite beads on the two wires in the rotor that go
to the pot ... it has been over 2 years and no problem....we sent this
info to the manufacturer and they now include the beads in all the
rotors... how we found it..... we have a burglar alarm in our
home....there are 2 horn speakers on each end of the house....twice in
lightning storms the speaker cores were burned out...it basically is the
same as the
rotor...a long run of wire picking up RF with a coil on the end ....we
installed ferrite donuts at each speaker..results no speaker burnout
during lightning storms for over 4 years...so after taking the rotor down
for the 3rd time we added the ferrite beads.....this was published in
QST I think in NOV 2 years ago....
Whitey K1VV
ROBERT.DOHERTY@FMR.COM
----------
From: frenaye@pcnet.com
To: yccc@contesting.com
Subject: [YCCC] Ham4 direction display
Date: Monday, April 21, 1997 12:33AM
I have a Ham4 rotator at 130' that apparently needs repairing, but
Before I pull it out I'd like to make sure other people think the same
thing is
wrong that I do.
When we finished the ARRL DX contest in March, the beam was left pointed
at JA (about 325 degrees). The next time I turned the beam was in early
April and the direction indicator shows there is a problem. When the
Beam is pointed at 325 degrees, plus or minus a very little, it displays
correctly but when I go to the left the meter immediately goes to zero
(on the left meter edge) and if I go to the right the meter immediately
goes
to full scale (on the right meter edge). When I cross the same point at
about 325 degrees the indicator jumps to the 325 spot.
Seems like the problem is at the rotator, not the control box or cable.
It needs a new variable resistor in the rotator itself. Right?
frenaye@pcnet.com
Tom Frenaye, K1KI, P O Box 386, West Suffield CT 06093 Phone:
860-668-5444
From: chapoton@SMTP-gw.gdls.com (Henry G Chapoton)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997
Subject: [TowerTalk] Re: T2X blown fuse
Lightning. I used to blow them regularly until I learned to disconnect
the control wires when not in use. Not necessarily a direct hit, but in
the neighborhood. If the element "vaporized" into pretty, colorful
crystalline stuff on the inside of the glass, it was lightning for sure.
Don't recall one blowing for any other reason in over 50 rotor/years with
several Ham-M and T2X. -- Greg na8v/4
From: n4kg@juno.com (T A RUSSELL)
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 1998 19:54:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Re[2]: [TowerTalk] protecting rotor terminal strips
I replace the standard rotor terminal screws with stainless steel screws.
de Tom N4KG
On Wed, 8 Apr 1998 10:46:23 -0400 GORDENH1@westat.com (GORDENH1) writes:
> You might want to consider using "GE RTV-618", similar to
>windshield sealer. It sets up in about 24hr, using the moisture in the
air,
>but it never hardens. I have used it on many out/indoor projects,
>and it peels off rather easy. May have to use X-acto blade in some very
>small areas or spots to remove. Also good for sealing coax
>connectors if you don't have access to the product called coax-seal.
Lasts
>many years if you don't disturb it. -- Howard W3CQH
>_________________________ Reply Separator ____________________________
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] protecting rotor terminal strips
Author: "Charles H. Harpole" <harpole@pegasus.cc.ucf.edu>
Date: 4/8/98 8:07 AM
I have used Scotch electric sealer (comes in liquid brush on form).
Works ok; very hard to get off later. used nothing, screws rusted
within one year. used silicone windshield sealer; preserves gud, very
very hard to get off later. used Krylon clear spray; a little rust
after three years, hard to tell where it is for later scraping and
reconnecting of wires.
U gotta use sompthin, cause rust is your alternative. -- de K4VUD
From: Bob Kmak <bkmak@airmail.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998
Subject: [TowerTalk] HAM-x Rotor Controls
Thanks for all the replies to my HAM-2 controller question. N3RR
referred me to the FAQ on Norm's Rotor Service web page. This is what
Norm
says:
14. Can I use a Ham-2 rotor control box with my T2X rotor? Are the Ham-2,
Ham-3, Ham-4 and T2X control boxes
interchangeable?
Yes, for the most part, all of the 8-wire rotors except for the TR-2
series
are interchangeable. You can use a TR-44 series 3; Ham-M
series 3, 4, or 5; CD-44/Ham-2; CD-44/Ham-3; Ham-4; or T2X control unit
with any of the listed rotors or vice versa. However, the
Ham-M and TR-44 series 1 and 2 rotors were wired differently and are not
interchangeable with anything else. So trying to use a series
1 or 2 control on a newer rotor will destroy the rotor pot instantly.
To be sure that you have one of the interchangeable controls, verify that
the motor start capacitor is across terminals 4 and 8. To verify
that the rotor is one of the interchangeable models, look for the 500-ohm
pot resistance across terminals 3 and 7. If your rotor and
control unit pass these inspections, they are interchangeable with others
which also pass.
Bob K5WO
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