[TowerTalk] Which PL259? K0FF

[K7GCO@aol.com]

In a message dated 11.06.00 13:13:01 Pacific Daylight Time, K0FF@ARRL.NET 
writes:

<< 
 I only use Amphenol PL259's (yeah I know even those are made in Asia now),
 but at least they are consistent. Just the regular bakelite ones, not Teflon
 or silver. Been using lots of them (some thousands anyway) outdoors and
 under motion stress for many a year. As long as they are put on right at
 first. No tinning of the braid (avoid this), no filing the little holes in
 the plug. Just lots of heat and a good solder. Melt solder into all 4 holes
 and it takes up on the braid just fine.Never mix parts from look-alike
 brands, The shells are longer and won't tighten down properly, giving an
 intermittent ground. If you get stuck with an SO-239 that does not have the
 teeth all the way around, but just 2 notches, make sure the 2 pips on the
 PL259 engage those squarely.
 
 Someone said they had good luck with a 150 W gun. I have not. The slightest
 breeze cools it off, and then you get a flaky connection. Secret still is
 lots of heat fast. Same goes for the UG176 reducers when using RG/59 or
 RG8Mini.
 
 I usually remember to put the shell on the cable first. Only forget that
 when it's raining or snowing outside, and I'm up on the tower...without a
 spare PL-259 body in my pocket.
 
 Anyway when you put the shell on the cable, tie a big loose knot in the coax
 and the shell won't slide down to the bottom of the cable. That's a good
 mental reminder too.  K0FF 
  >>
Good advice. However on the UG 176 reducers there is a better way to install 
them--with a 50 watt iron.  Instead of soldering through the holes to the 
bent back braid, file the top of it to get to brass, bend the braid over the 
end, trim it off and solder it there.  Add acrylic spay around the center pin 
and insulation to water proof it.  Then install it in the PL 259.  It's easy 
to remove the connector now if desired.  Just head the center pin, fling it 
to get the solder out of it and unscrew it.  K7GCO

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