[TowerTalk] Making Stub Hardline connectors

[Robert Shohet]

> Hi Dave and TTer's,
>
> I really appreciate the additional info.  After digesting your response
and
> after speaking with Wayne, W3EA, I think I have a pretty good
understanding
> of all this now.
>
> One question remains.....
>
> I am a little queasy about the idea of splitting the aluminum shield of
the
> hardline and hoseclamping it to the PL259.  I am also not sure I like the
> idea of having to shave off a lot of the center conductor so that it will
> fit in the PL259 so that it can be soldered to the PL259.  Is there a
better
> way to do this?
>
> What about this idea....
>
> I use a piece of emery cloth and reduce the circumference of the hardline
> and then make a small split in the aluminum shield and clamp it to the
outer
> piece of the PL259 and then solder them to each other with a butane torch
> and normal solder (and then remove the hoseclamp).  Then I screw in the
> smaller PL259 piece and solder it to the center conductor with a regular
> soldering gun.  Will this work, or will it take so long to heat up the CC
> that I will fry the phenolic in the PL259?
>
> Your thoughts please on this method or any other that makes good
> connections, uses standard stuff and won't fry anything.
>
> Tnx again and 73
>
> Bob KQ2M
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Robbins <k1ttt@berkshire.net>
> To: <kq2m@mags.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 6:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Stubs and RG213
>
>
> > Robert Shohet wrote:
> > >
> > > Let's assume that I am making stubs for the 20 meter coax and there
will
> > > be two stubs in line, a 23' OPEN which nulls 40 & 15 and a 11'6"
shorted
> > > to null 10.
> > >
> > > I assume that if I am running a coax line from the ant switch to the
23'
> > > stub, I am going to cut the coaxial spacing line for a 1/4 WL on 40
> > > meters (which would be 1/2 wl on 20), and then the next coaxial line
to
> > > go to the T connector for the 10 meter stub should be 1/4 wl on 10
which
> > > would be 1/8 wl on 20.  Is this correct?  Or do I do it differently?
> >
> > i don't think the length of the line between those makes any difference.
> w8ji
> > and some others do, but my experience and modeling don't show any
> advantage so i
> > don't know which would be better.
> >
> > >
> > > Likewise on 40 where I am making the three stubs, I assume that I make
> > > the first coaxial spacing line of a 1/4 wl on 20 (for the 20/10 stub)
> > > and then a second coaxial spacing line of a 1/4 wl on 15 for the 15'3"
> > > stub. This is what I do even though the 1/4 wl on 15 is 1/12 wl on 40?
> > > OR, should I make the coaxial spacing line 1/8 wl on 40 which will be
> > > 3/8 wl on 15?  I am not clear on this?
> >
> > again, i don't think it matters.  i connect them all at one spot and
think
> that
> > is as good as it gets.
> >
> > >
> > > I am assuming that the antenna, radio and amp do not care about the
> > > length of the coaxial lines, only the stubs care.  Is this correct?
> >
> > right, and i'm not sure the stubs even care unless you are doing two
sets
> of
> > identical stubs when the 1/4 wave spacing applies... though they still
> seem
> > better with zero space between them.
> >
> > >
> > > Does it make sense to have TWO IDENTICAL separate sets of stubs, one
on
> > > Radio A and one on Radio B?  Or is this not necessary?
> >
> > not really.  if you can put a set of stubs on the feedline for each band
> that
> > should be all that is needed.
> >
> > >
> > > Last questions....
> > >
> > > How would you go about connecting the hardline to the T connectors...
> > > I can use pipe fittings with a 3/4" fitting from the hardline to a
> > > pl258, but then I would either need to use a double male to go the T
> > > connector (which I would prefer not to do), or use some sort of
> > > hardline/pl259 connector.  What do you do?
> >
> > i do whatever fits.  on some of the hardline you can put on a pl259 by
> using a
> > plumbing fitting to adapt the shield of the hardline to the pl259 body.
> one one
> > of my sets of stubs i solder the center conductor of the hardline into
the
> pin
> > of the pl259 and use a heavy piece of braid and hoseclamps to connect
the
> shield
> > to the body of the pl259.
> >
> > > Is there a reasonably priced hardline/pl259 connector?  Do you know
how
> > > much it is and where I can get it?
> >
> > i haven't seen any.
> >
> > >
> > > Last q....  I know that I need to use a butane torch to melt some
> > > compound to "solder" it to the 3/4' plumbing fitting.  Do you know
what
> > > the compound is called and/or where I can get it?
> > >
> >
> > soldering to the aluminum shield or the pl259??  for the pl259 i just
> clean it
> > well and use regular rosin core solder.  on the aluminum i usually slit
> the
> > fitting and use a hose clamp to hold it tight.  sometimes you can use a
> threaded
> > pipe fitting to connect to the hardline, but i'm not sure if that would
be
> good
> > to try on air dielectric stuff it might just crush it down.
> >
> >
> > --
> > David Robbins K1TTT
> > e-mail: mailto://k1ttt@berkshire.net
> > web: http://www.berkshire.net/~robbins/k1ttt.html or
http://www.k1ttt.net
> > AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://k1ttt.net
> >
> >
>


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