[TowerTalk] Rotor repair

K0FF K0FF@ARRL.NET
Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:40:56 -0500


Here is a handy jig that I use to work on the bell shaped rotors. It's a
piece of pipe welded to a heavy metal base (that I found on the road one
day). The gray colored paint on it is Instant Cold Galvanizing which I get
at Home Depot (electrical, not paint dept..), and use a lot around here. The
little box in the foreground is a test fixture for working on the control
boxes. Lights indicate motor/brake voltage, and terminals to test the
capacitor. A knob is connected to a pot inside and roughly calibrated, to
simulate rotor position to test the controlbox meter.

To the left of that is an old style control box, which can be made quite
usable by rewiring the switch. By removing one contact, and rewiring the
others, the function can be changed so A) the light/meter are on all the
time B) the Brake is activated by a slight movement of the lever, either
right or left, but not the motor, and C) the motor and brake are both
activated in the extreme right or left position. That's my mod, and will
write it up soon.
Quick disconnect 9 pin AMP plugs are on the subject rotor, and all the test
boxes. All the rotors out on the farm use them.

To the right you can compare the mast clamps of the HDR-300 (dismounted on
the floor) and the Orion OR2800DC. Both are big. The Orion is bigger.
On the left is a "small" prop-pitch undergoing a M2 reed switch mod. This
one is destined for the new EME array. Note the solid aluminum machined
output shaft and clamshell type coupler.



http://homepages.dstream.net/K0FF/Rotor/TestJig




--
FAQ on WWW:               http://www.contesting.com/FAQ/towertalk
Submissions:              towertalk@contesting.com
Administrative requests:  towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
Problems:                 owner-towertalk@contesting.com