[TowerTalk] Alternate method, PL-259 on RG-8-type coax

[j.a.hermans]

  I very often used this method but withourt soldering at all. You should
use the right PLs, those where the internal thread has no sharp edge so it
cannot cut the bread.
  I never used this method  on cables who where installed  permanently in
free air.

  Also this one, for the N type  ( we called Navy ) be aware of not to mixup
5O E and 75 E male and femal, the central pins are of a different size.

  My 2 Euro cents

  Jos on4kj



  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Bill VanAlstyne" <w5wvo at cybermesa.net>
  To: "_Mailing List Tower-Talk" <towertalk at contesting.com>
  Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:31 PM
  Subject: [TowerTalk] Alternate method, PL-259 on RG-8-type coax


  > I read through an extensive, several-years-old archived thread the other
  > day, -- somewhere, maybe on QRZ.com -- on UHF vs. N-type connectors.
While
  > the recent discussion of UHF connector loss at various frequencies has
been
  > very enlightening, the caveat "high-quality, properly installed" is
always
  > stated or implied.
  >
  > One of the things I read in the aforementioned thread was from a guy who
  > believed that the PL-259 connector is much better installed in a manner
that
  > differs significantly from the "standard" method. I'm wondering what the
  > group here thinks of this idea. This is paraphrasing from memory:
  >
  > "Slip the connector sleeve ring and a length of heat-shrink 2-3" long
over
  > the coax. Strip the outer jacket and center dielectric using the same
  > dimensions as for the "standard" method, but don't trim the shield
braid.
  > Instead, pull the shield braid inside-out back over the outer jacket.
Screw
  > the connector body over the prepared cable end such that the braid is
  > compressed between the connector threads and the jacket of the cable.
This
  > will be hard and will require hand tools, but keep screwing it on until
you
  > can just see the braid through the solder holes. You stop there. You
don't
  > solder it through the solder holes, but rather around the rear edge of
the
  > connector body. Then trim off the excess braid and apply the heat-shrink
  > over the connector body and the cable behind it. Solder the center
conductor
  > and trim off any excess length. Then thread on the sleeve ring."
  >
  > That's it. I don't recall that the guy said exactly WHY he thought this
was
  > a better method, but after thinking about it, I'm not sure I like it.
The
  > good point is that it would result in less deformation of the dielectric
  > material by soldering heat. But the shield connection seems
problematical to
  > me. While compression of the braid against the inside of the connector
body
  > would make a good unsoldered shield connection (assuming you were using
  > good-quality silver plated connectors), that connection would degrade
over
  > time, as the connector is not weather-resistant like the N-type.
Soldering
  > it as proposed in his method, on the other hand, would effectively
relieve
  > the beneficial pressure of the braid against the inside of the connector
  > body by melting the jacket material. Of course soldering would provide
its
  > own permanent electrical connection to the shield, but only at the back
edge
  > of the body. Because of the squirrelly back-looped path of the shield to
the
  > connector body attachment point, it seems to me that this method would
  > create even more of an impedance hump that the "standard" method.
(Though at
  > HF, as discussed here earlier, it probably wouldn't matter a hill of
beans
  > one way or the other.)
  >
  > But I could be completely off the wall here. What do y'all think of his
  > method?
  >
  > Bill / W5WVO
  > _______________________________________________
  >
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