[TowerTalk] [BULK] - soldering 259s to buryflex 9914F

[Gary Schafer]

Ian White GM3SEK wrote:
> Steve Katz wrote:
> 
>>I find this stuff very easy to work with - easier than mil standard RG213/U,
>>actually.  There shouldn't be any "small part between the center conductor
>>and the braid," although I know what you mean.  I've always found the best
>>dimension for this area is "0.00."  No dimension.  I use a sharp razor blade
>>to cut through the black outer jacket, braid, foil and dielectric all in one
>>rotary cut, and bingo -- it's all gone, leaving only the center conductor
>>exposed.  Then, I just go down the coax another 1/2" and strip only the
>>black vinyl jacket, leaving everything else intact.
>>
>>Screw on the connector, which by such action will push the braid back very
>>slightly from the original cut end, to expose the braid through the four
>>solder holes in the connector body once the connector is fully screwed onto
>>the cable jacket.  Solder the holes, wait a minute, solder the center
>>conductor -- done.
> 
> 
> Two additional H&Ks:
> 
> 1. Unless the plug is silver plated, it often helps to clear the plating 
> out of the solder holes, so you're soldering to bare brass.
> 
> 2.  If you pre-heat the plug body with a hot-air gun, you can use your 
> normal 25W soldering iron. (A hot-air gun is much better value than a 
> giant soldering iron, and it does heat-shrink tubing too.)
> 
> 

The whole idea of using a large iron to solder the plug with is to get 
the job done quickly with enough localized heat so you don't spread so 
much heat to the coax. By preheating the plug you have defeated yourself.

73
Gary  K4FMX