[TowerTalk] LMR-400 with rotators
Dick Green WC1M
wc1m at msn.com
Fri Dec 1 10:53:53 EST 2006
I recommend Buryflex instead of LMR-400 or LMR-400U (Ultraflex.) I've tested
all three cable types and Buryflex is by far the most flexible. LMR-400U
isn't as flexible as the name would suggest, especially in cold weather.
Buryflex has similar characteristics to LMR-400 and LMR-400U, through not
quite as good. I think the tradeoff would be worth it.
As for making a rotor loop out of the five coax links, you can run them all
out the boom of the TH-11 for 2-3 feet, tape them at that spot, then drop
them down into a large loop attached to the tower a few feet below the
thrust bearing. Just make the loop large enough to reach around the tower in
both directions to get 450 degrees of rotation. Alternatively, you could
tape the feeds together and coil them around the thrust bearing. Before
choosing that option, I'd tape five pieces of coax together to see if it'll
bend to the desired radius and coil/uncoil smoothly without lifting off the
top plate and getting fouled in the TH-11.
73, Dick WC1M
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C Dwight Baker [mailto:cdwightbaker at bellsouth.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:53 AM
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] LMR-400 with rotators
>
> Mike, I agreed with Kenny. However, if you use LMR-400
> Ultraflex from Times Microwave you will have much better luck.
>
> Dwight W4IJY
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of
> towertalk-request at contesting.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 9:16 AM
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 47, Issue 119
>
> Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
> towertalk at contesting.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> towertalk-request at contesting.com
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> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more
> specific than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. LMR-400 with Rotators - A Dilemma (Dr M J DiGirolamo)
> 2. 40 meter beams (Dennis OConnor)
> 3. Sloper (nd8l at juno.com)
> 4. LMR-400 with Rotators - A Dilemma (Dennis OConnor)
> 5. Re: Sloper (bob finger)
> 6. Re: Wires on Freestanding Towers (Robskel)
> 7. Re: tower wanted (ny6dx at aim.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 04:14:32 -0500
> From: "Dr M J DiGirolamo" <DrD at 2020.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] LMR-400 with Rotators - A Dilemma
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <008501c7145f$f509fe70$6701a8c0 at fm55k01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Dear Colleagues,
>
> I'm in the final stages of arranging antennas on top of this tower
> (project)
> that you've been reading about since last May. I have run against a
> dilemma
> that I'm not sure is real or imaginary.
>
> Situation:
>
> I have a 72' crankup tower with side-arm "cable loop
> guides" on each of the tops of the 4 tower sections. At the
> top is a 20 foot mast supporting several
> antennas. The lowest antenna is a HyGain TH-11DX to be
> mounted about 1
> foot
> above the thrust bearing. Above are 4 antennas, including
> 432 and 1296MHz yagis at the very top.
>
> My plan is to feed LMR-400 cable directly to all antennas
> 2M and below and use LDF4-50A hardline to the top of the
> tower, joining it to a more flexible LMR-400 jumper feeding
> the 432 and 1296 antennas, some 16 - 20 feet above.
> This
> makes a total of 5 feeds of LMR-400. This combination was
> selected keep the losses to a minimum. The difficulty of
> working with hardline & LMR-400 with a crankup tower has been
> carefully considered. The conclusion is that lowering the
> tower is a two man project.
>
> Problems, questions, dilemma:
>
> 1. Is LMR-400 flexible enough to be used with a rotator?
> My rotator has a 450 degree travel.
>
> 2. How do you physically arrange the LMR-400 to allow
> enough slack for the 450 degree rotation, once out of the top
> loop? Remember, the HyGain TH-11DX HF beam antenna is just
> about 1 foot above this upper loop.
>
> 3. How do you terminate/support the LDF4-50A to make the
> transition to LMR-400 cable?
>
> 4. Anyone have photos that might help with this or perhaps
> a webpage URL showing details?
>
> All thoughts and suggestions are all welcomed.
>
> 73,
>
> Mike DiGirolamo, W4XN
> W4XN at arrl.net
> Charlottesville, VA
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 04:49:22 -0800 (PST)
> From: Dennis OConnor <ad4hk2004 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] 40 meter beams
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <923675.20116.qm at web32709.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> What is your price range?
>
> If you care enough to run the very best then CAL AV 2D-40A is
> the only answer...
> If the budget is a bit thin then a shorty forty like the
> HyGain DIS-72 will fill the bill...
> In between is M2, Force 12, and a herd of others...
>
> You are on the internet and the answers are out there...
>
> Cheers ... denny
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 12:53:13 GMT
> From: "nd8l at juno.com" <nd8l at juno.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Sloper
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <20061130.045338.2704.1568434 at webmail06.lax.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
>
> Hi...
>
> Just "inherited" an old W9INN sloper from W3GH. It has
> several hardwood spreaders that have seen better days.
>
> Any recommendations as to a replacement material and a source
> for same?
>
> Reply off list, please.
>
> Thanks.
>
> ND8L
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> __________
> Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
> Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage.
> Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:08:16 -0800 (PST)
> From: Dennis OConnor <ad4hk2004 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] LMR-400 with Rotators - A Dilemma
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <20061130130816.23361.qmail at web32712.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> ummm, you aren't going to like my thoughts... I think you are
> way in over your head on this... If you insist on trying to
> use a stiff coax in a flexing situation you are in for
> endless breakage... The only way I see this as being
> remotely successfull is to have the "hardline" come off the
> tower at an angle in a gentle caternary to the ground-
> forget the cable loops - so that as the tower is lowered the
> hardline can be draped across the lawn in large S curves...
> The very best way to handle this is to crank the tower up the
> day you install the hardline and leave it up until the day
> your widow sells your worn out, obsolete, ham gear for two
> cents on the dollar...
> As far as LMR-400 for the rotator loops it will not give
> reliable service...
> You will need to use one of the superflex type cables.. Give
> the guys at Davis RF a call and ask them for advice...
>
> cheers ... denny - k8do
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 08:18:07 -0500
> From: bob finger <finger at goeaston.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sloper
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <456EDA0F.9080406 at goeaston.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-15; format=flowed
>
> Hardwood comes from trees like Oak, Maple, etc. If you don't
> have one then a lumber yard is the place to go. Or you could
> go manmade and use white or tan pvc plumbing tube. Another
> thought would be ceramic open wire feeder spreaders. Sorry,
> can't tell you where to come up with
> those. Sorry, could not resist.73 bob de w9ge
>
> nd8l at juno.com wrote:
>
> >Hi...
> >
> >Just "inherited" an old W9INN sloper from W3GH. It has several
> >hardwood spreaders that have seen better days.
> >
> >Any recommendations as to a replacement material and a
> source for same?
> >
> >Reply off list, please.
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >ND8L
> >
> >
> >_____________________________________________________________
> __________
> >_ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month!
> >Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage.
> >Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >TowerTalk mailing list
> >TowerTalk at contesting.com
> >http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 17:12:25 -0600
> From: "Robskel" <robskel at tx.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Wires on Freestanding Towers
> To: "'Mike Fatchett'" <mike at mallardcove.com>, "'Jerry Keller'"
> <k3bz at arrl.net>, "'TowerTalk'" <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <005401c7140b$d5639ee0$6501a8c0 at BOBSXPPRO2006>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> What is the other end of the dipole tied to? In other words,
> is the tower relatively free to flex? I suggest using a
> bungee cord to attach one or the other end of the dipole to
> its anchor. You just don't want the wire to get real taut
> when the wind blows from any direction.
>
> Bob, W5LT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Fatchett [mailto:mike at mallardcove.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:12 AM
> To: 'Jerry Keller'; 'TowerTalk'
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Wires on Freestanding Towers
>
> I will defer on the guying issue as there are more qualified
> folks to answer. I think it would depend on the manufacturer.
>
> I don't think the end of a wire dipole on the tower is going
> to cause any trouble. If I can lean my butt out from the top
> and the tower doesn't move then hooking up the end of a
> dipole is not going to do anything either.
>
> Mike W0MU
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Keller
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 8:59 AM
> To: (Reflector) TowerTalk
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Wires on Freestanding Towers
>
> I read on the reflector that it's not a good idea to guy a
> freestanding tower, because of forces applied that the tower
> is not designed to handle.
> On that same basis, is it OK to use a free-standing tower as
> one end support for a dipole? If so, should another wire
> antenna always be installed to pull in the opposite
> direction, to balance things out? What factors should be
> considered when attaching wire antennas to freestanding
> towers? Or is there really no big cause for concern here?
>
> 73, Jerry K3BZ
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list
> TowerTalk at contesting.com
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 20:13:23 -0500
> From: ny6dx at aim.com
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] tower wanted
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <8C8E233DD93D3DE-200-D021 at WEBMAIL-MC07.sysops.aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Want a hdx 572 tower anyone know where I can get one used?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-request at contesting.com
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Sent: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 5:47 PM
> Subject: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 47, Issue 116
>
>
> Send TowerTalk mailing list submissions to
> towertalk at contesting.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> towertalk-request at contesting.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> towertalk-owner at contesting.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more
> specific than "Re: Contents of TowerTalk digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: TowerTalk Digest, Vol 47, Issue 115 (Craig Clark)
> 2. Re: Stretching THHN house wiring (Lee Buller)
> 3. Re: Stretching THHN house wiring (BRENT BAUM)
> 4. Re: Stuck aluminum tubes and caution (john at kk9a.com)
> 5. Rust on Tower Cable (Fritz Hurd)
> 6. Re: stacking monobanders (Rick Karlquist)
> 7. Re: How do you separate aluminium tubes that are
> stucktogether ? (Keith Dutson)
> 8. Re: Stuck aluminum tubes and caution (K8RI on TowerTalk)
> 9. Re: Stuck aluminum tubes and caution (Peter Chadwick)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 14:41:15 -0500
> From: Craig Clark <jcclark at wildblue.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TowerTalk Digest, Vol 47, Issue 115
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <20061129194333.4A94336D054 at mail.wildblue.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> > 4. Stretching THHN house wiring (Pete Smith)
>
> Pete
>
> THHN and almost all other kinds of home electrical wire is
> soft drawn copper.
>
> It will stretch and you have to account for the insulation in
> your calculations.
>
>
>
>
> 73, Craig Clark, K1QX
>
>
> RADIOWARE AND RADIO BOOKSTORE
> PO BOX 209
> RINDGE NH 03461
> 603 899 6957
> WWW.RADIO-WARE.COM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 12:22:45 -0800 (PST)
> From: Lee Buller <k0wa at swbell.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stretching THHN house wiring
> To: Pete Smith <n4zr at contesting.com>, TowerTalk Reflector
> <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <77041.99007.qm at web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Pete,
>
> What I have done before putting up THHN House wiring is to
> pre-streach it.
> I
> would take about 100 foot or so....then tie one end to a
> fence post and the
> other to the bumper on my car. Drive off till it broke. The
> streach is
> gone
> and the place it broke was weak anyway.
>
> At least, that is how I rationalized it. Worked for me for years
>
> Lee -K0WA
>
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short
> supply. If you
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If
> you can't find
> any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common
> Sense. Is
> Common
> Sense devine?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 13:30:17 -0700
> From: "BRENT BAUM" <brentbaum5323 at msn.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stretching THHN house wiring
> To: k0wa at swbell.net, n4zr at contesting.com, towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <BAY107-F6F9EADB845B2B06EDBCA9B6E40 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> Interesting technique. I'm willing to bet 3 rusted tower
> bolts that 80 to
> 90% of the time the wire broke where it was connected to
> either the fence
> post or the car. Sharp bends and knots are usually the
> weakest points,
> whether it's antenna wire or climbing rope.
>
> A note of caution when using this technique: tie a large rag
> or two on the
> wire to reduce the whipping action when it breaks, and keep
> dogs and small
> children at a safe distance.
>
> 73 K7MEI, Brent
>
>
> >From: Lee Buller <k0wa at swbell.net>
> >To: Pete Smith <n4zr at contesting.com>,TowerTalk Reflector
> ><towertalk at contesting.com>
> >Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stretching THHN house wiring
> >Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 12:22:45 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >Pete,
> >
> > What I have done before putting up THHN House wiring is
> to pre-streach
> >it. I would take about 100 foot or so....then tie one end
> to a fence post
> >and the other to the bumper on my car. Drive off till it
> broke. The
> >streach is gone and the place it broke was weak anyway.
> >
> > At least, that is how I rationalized it. Worked for me for years
> >
> > Lee -K0WA
> >
> >
> >
> >In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short
> supply. If you
> >don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use
> it. If you
> >can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who
> has some Common
>
> >Sense. Is Common Sense devine?
> >_______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >TowerTalk mailing list
> >TowerTalk at contesting.com
> >http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:33:08 -0500
> From: <john at kk9a.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stuck aluminum tubes and caution
> To: <TOWERTALK at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <001901c713f5$996cd430$55f22143 at Basement>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I would be a little cautious about using PB Blaster. I believe it's
> basically made for unsticking rusted steel parts. I tried
> Liquid Wrench
> once to loosen some antenna parts and it made it more
> difficult. WD-40
> works well. I'm not sure how well heat or cold will work as
> aluminum is a
> good conductor. The only sections I ever had trouble getting
> apart were
> ones that were tight to begin with. Make sure that you have
> around 0.005"
> clearance between sections before assembling.
>
> John KK9A
>
>
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stuck aluminum tubes and caution
> From: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net>
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 14:20:14 -0500
> List-post: <mailto:towertalk at contesting.com>
>
> As others have already noted penetrating oil and heat, but
> I'd add a caution
> about heat.
>
> As for penetrating oils, PB-Blaster is one of the best along
> with MouseMilk
> (really). You'll probably be more likely to find PB-Blaster
> at the hardware
> and big box stores. The stuff works far, far better than
> WD-40 which isn't
> all that bad. Given a choice though and particularly when I
> maybe saving
> substantial money, I'd get some of the PB-Blaster. Use
> patience. Stand the
> tubes on end so the penetrating oil will tend to drain into
> the tubes and
> give it over night. If if won't come apart by itself then go
> ahead and use
> some heat, sparingly.
>
> A little more drastic would be packing the inside with dry
> ice just before
> heating the outside.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
> N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
> www.rogerhalstead.com
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:23:16 -0500
> From: "Fritz Hurd" <fred.hurd at cox.net>
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Rust on Tower Cable
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <000e01c713fc$956f1580$0b00a8c0 at w4pku700f0857f>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Hi Guys - I have a motor driven US Tower that I installed
> six years ago and
>
> still works great (Model 472). Recently I have noticed a rust
> build-up on
> the
> cable around the motor drive pulleys but not up the tower. My
> question is
> whether or not this is a potential problem that could weaken
> the cable. The
> cable looks and moves fine, but it is turning brown with rust
> around the
> motor
> area. I suppose I could cover the motor and lower pulleys
> with tarp, but I'm
> not
> sure that is necessary...any sugestions from your
> experiences? FRITZ W4PKU
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 13:48:07 -0800 (PST)
> From: "Rick Karlquist" <richard at karlquist.com>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] stacking monobanders
> To: "K4SAV" <RadioIR at charter.net>
> Cc: towertalk at contesting.com
> Message-ID:
> <22332.192.25.240.225.1164836887.squirrel at webmail.sonic.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>
> K4SAV wrote:
> > You overlooked one other complicating factor, feedline length. The
> > length of the feedline on the unused antenna determines if
> the unused
> > antenna looks resonant or not.
>
> No I didn't overlook that. I installed remote relays that
> disconnected
> both halves of the unused inverted vee from the coax.
>
> > Experimental A/B testing of closely mounted antennas with
> uncontrolled
> > parameters of feedline length and source impedance can produce some
> > really weird results.
>
> The antenna under test was terminated in 50 ohms at all times.
>
> >> Hi, Rick.
> >>
> >> Those are interesting comments, so I modeled it up with EZNEC with
> >> approximately resonant antennas to see what it looked like. Your
> >> message says "inverted vee's" (plural), so I'm making the leap to
> >> assume you had all three inverted vee's up at the same
> time and were
> >> able to switch between them. Please correct me if I'm
> wrong ... and
>
> Yes I did that.
>
> >> None of this data should be taken too literally, of course, but the
> >> model implies a lot of parasitic coupling between the
> three antennas
> >> that affects the pattern even when only one of the
> antennas is being
> >> fed. Individually, the signal level at 20 degrees varies by 8 db
>
> An inverted vee with its feed point open circuited has virtually
> no parasitic coupling effects (you can easily model this).
>
> >> It would be interesting to see someone hang an inverted vee from a
> >> pully and rope and take signal strength readings at different
> >> heights. I don't have my tower up yet at this new QTH,
> but if nobody
> >> has done so by the time I get the tower up I'll promise to
> give it a
> >> try.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Dave AB7E
>
> Did that too. We put an 80m inverted vee on a 115 ft crank up tower
> and A/B'ed it with a ground mounted vertical.
> At full height, it was on a par with the vertical for DX. For
> locals, it was always better than the vertical, but the difference
> was 10 dB more at low heights. At low heights, the vertical beat
> the vee by 10 dB on DX. This all agrees with modeling.
> For some reason, we don't see this neat relationship on 40 meters.
>
> Hopefully, next spring, the MonstIR will go up on the crank up and
> we can see how it works at various heights on 40 meters.
>
> Rick N6RK
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:55:52 -0600
> From: "Keith Dutson" <kdutson at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] How do you separate aluminium tubes that are
> stucktogether ?
> To: <towertalk at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <005401c71401$24526190$6a2d490c at KEITHSUPPORT>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> If all else fails, try heating and cooling the joint several
> times. Heat
> with a hair drier and cool with an ice pack. The expansion
> and contraction
> will sometimes break the corrosion enough to loosen the joint.
>
> 73, Keith NM5G
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: towertalk-bounces at contesting.com
> [mailto:towertalk-bounces at contesting.com] On Behalf Of Robert Thain
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 7:13 AM
> To: towertalk at contesting.com
> Subject: [TowerTalk] How do you separate aluminium tubes that are
> stucktogether ?
>
> Hello,
>
> How do you separate aluminium tubes that are stuck together ?
>
> We have a 2 section boom that we want to separate but the
> pieces are stuck
> together. The boom is joined at the centre by a smaller tube that goes
> inside the outer tubes (the boom). (The boom sleeves the
> smaller fixing
> section in the middle.) We easily removed the bolts but the 3
> pieces of tube
> are stuck together. The antenna is only a year old, but we
> did not protect
> the surface before assembly.
> I fear that it may be corroded together.
> So, how do you separate aluminium tubes that are stuck,
> without damaging
> them.
>
> I've looked back through the archives , but did not find
> anything......
>
> Thanks
> Robert G0HGW(at)yahoo.com (at) = @
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 17:23:10 -0500
> From: "K8RI on TowerTalk" <K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stuck aluminum tubes and caution
> To: <TOWERTALK at contesting.com>
> Message-ID: <001701c71404$f75c1420$6500a8c0 at SecondOne>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
>
>
>
> >I would be a little cautious about using PB Blaster. I believe it's
> > basically made for unsticking rusted steel parts. I tried
> Liquid Wrench
>
> "I think" it'll work well with Aluminum too, but I make no
> gurantees and I'm
>
> not running out to the shop to read the lable as it's pouring
> rain as in
> visibility no more than a couple hundred yards. Forecase was
> for light
> scattered showeres.
>
> > once to loosen some antenna parts and it made it more
> difficult. WD-40
> > works well. I'm not sure how well heat or cold will work
> as aluminum is a
> > good conductor. The only sections I ever had trouble
> getting apart were
> > ones that were tight to begin with. Make sure that you
> have around 0.005"
> > clearance between sections before assembling.
>
> You mean this approach may not work with those two sections I drove
> together? <g> Brand new too. It was part of an antenna boom.
> They sent me
> new parts within two days. It'd be nice to save them and
> they've lain up on
> top of the shelving out in the shop for years. I'll probably
> end up using a
>
> small rotary saw or cutter in a mill to slot the outter tube
> enough to get
> them apart. That'll save the inner one and still leave me
> with about 6 feet
> of the larger stuff (that's out of spec)
>
>
> Roger (K8RI)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 23:47:34 +0100 (CET)
> From: Peter Chadwick <g3rzp at g3rzp.wanadoo.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Stuck aluminum tubes and caution
> To: K8RI on TowerTalk <K8RI-on-TowerTalk at tm.net>,
> TOWERTALK at contesting.com
> Message-ID: <25585070.239701164840454645.JavaMail.www at wwinf3201>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> I've done this a couple of times, and had no problems wih galling when
> twisting
> the tubing - but YMMV.
> Meantime, there's two bits of a 205BA boom lying along side
> the hedge in my
> garden waiting for the buyer to come and separate them and
> take them away.
> Tried so far has been penetrating oil, heat, hammer, and a
> windlass between
> two
> substantial trees.......plus a lot of bad language.
> Some you win...........
> 73
> Peter G3RZP
>
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